diy coil Denitrator

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by Annoying, 21 Feb 2010.

  1. Annoying

    Annoying

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    Ok, I've read allot about these coil denitrators and thaught that why don't make one. Like always in marine bigger is better;)! So I decided if I'm going to do it why not overdo it... In place of only one pilar with the coils I'll use three with on loooooong piece of tubing connecting them. It's going to be syphoned so no pumps required. I just want to ask one thing, what do you guys think will be the best thing to use for inside the tubing(I don't know if it would work but wouldn't it be better if the filter medium was inseide the tubing and not inside the tubing stand?). Bioballs would be the easiest bacause it would be easy to throw them in the tubing or maybe cyramic rings but any help would be appreciated.
    [​IMG]
    Ps. If someone is wondering why I just don't use DSB the awnser is my sump is just to small to do an effective job.
     
    Last edited: 21 Feb 2010
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  3. luwaynecrous

    luwaynecrous

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    You must just remember, you are going to use a small diameter tubing, and alot of it, about 70m per tube, and you want 3 of them in series. There is going to be alot of surface friction inside the tube and althow you dont want a strong water flow, to get the water through that lengh off tubing is going to be dificult. If you want to use a denitrator, one will do the job.
     
  4. Quintus

    Quintus the irish aXeman

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    somewhere along the line i read somewhere that for this to be effective one needs a tube in the region of Diameter 160mm at least and this must be around 8 feet long to actually be affective.

    i will look for this and place the info for you
     
  5. luwaynecrous

    luwaynecrous

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    Done quit a bit of research on this at one stage, apparantly you can use 110mm tubing for the main canister, but the coil tubing must be between 6-8mm inside diameter and at least 70m long...but there is alot of false info on the web. Best to get a reply from somebody who has actualy done it.
     
  6. Quintus

    Quintus the irish aXeman

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    this info i have readfrom a book, from a PHD Professor from the states.
     
  7. Louis Scheepers

    Louis Scheepers

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    Hi Annoying

    I also have a small sump, so I use a DIY coil dinitrator. It seems to work (i have a bit..or a lot...of algea problems, so they might be using all the nitrate) because my Nitrate was at about 10mg/l when I got the tank. I used most of the old water so I got it with those levels. After about two months the reading was zero...that was before the algea took over.

    The size coil dinitrator I built should work for a tank of about 600liters according to the plans I used.

    I used a standard sewer pipe (think 100mm diameter) 50cm long. Siliconed an endcap to the bottom.

    Used about 12 meters of petrol pipe for the coil (blue with white rope inside). It doesn't go hard like normal aquarium piping. It has an outside diameter of about 12mm and an inside diameter of about 6mm. According to the plan I used, that is perfect. I started at the bottom and coiled it to the top. At the top I siliconed it in place. I used normal bio-balls for the center.

    I used another endcap and made two holes in it. The petrol pipe goes through one (this is the line from the pump) and the normal thin aquarium air hose (silicon type) through the other. Both were siliconed to the endcap after I siliconed the cap to the sewer pipe.

    The air hose sticks out about 3cm on the inside of the cap. It is the return to the aquarium, and to control the drip rate, I used a normal air valve at the tip.

    A 1200lph pump is used for the flow through the coil dinitrator, and it struggles to get water throug the dinitrator (barely more than a fast drip rate).

    I wont go for three, unless you want to use bigger diameter pipe or a 12000lph pump or something.

    Hope it helps and makes a little sence!
     
  8. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    the diy denitrator can be as simple as a long plastic tube attached to a small powerhead in your tank. as the water moves along the tube(not too fast) the oxygen using bacteria live until the part in the tube where the oxygen is used up then the anaerobic bacteria kick in and start removing nitrates. i had mine rolled up with each end in my tank. I used fifteen metres of six mm dia tube and a tiny via aqua pump. if you smell sulphur you cut of a section of the tube(a metre at first and smaller sections after that. until you find the sulphur smell is very low. and voila a denitrator perfected! the powerhead pumps at the rate it is rated for so no strain on pump.( i tried the large tube with bioballs version but it can become a sulphur factory if not carefull and you haveto start over as it kills all bacteria in tube). with the thin tube version if you have too much sulphur you are in essence just removing the problem section by shortening itand the rest is still fully operational
     
    Last edited: 16 Mar 2010
  9. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Maybe I missed something here, you guys use 6mm hose, how do you get bio balls into that?

    ASFAIK a denitrator is like Mandarinman said, a long piece of pipe, or you can use a chamber with filter media inside with a very slow flow rate.

    could you explain your method?
     
  10. Louis Scheepers

    Louis Scheepers

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    I used a big sewer pipe, then coil the 6mm pipe on the inside, but only against the walls of the sewer pipe. You are then left with a hole in the middel of the sewer pipe, and that is where you put the bio balls. The pump pumps water through the coil, at the bottom of the sewer pipe the coil is open and the water is pushed up, through the bio balls, out through the top...

    Does this make sence, or am I still leaving something out? I guess I should post a picture, but I'm to lazy... :whistling:
     
  11. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    if you just use tubing (6mm for a nano or ten mm for a larger tank) then you dont use bio balls. the inside of the tube hosts the bacteria. if you however make a sealed unit(drain pipe plastic) you would have a thin plastic tube that enters watertite lid at top, circulates down inside of sealed unit in a circular manner as would a thread on inside of tube with the end of your thin diameter tube at the bottom of tube opening to the inside of tube(does not exit bigger sealed unit)the middle of the larger tube is filled with bioballs. the unit has a second hole with tube attached externally so in essence the water enters the thin tube by powerhead, flows down thin tube slowly and as it flows down the aerobic bacteria consume oxygen and then anaerobic bacteria inhabit tube and start removing nitrates the water exits the tube inside the canister at bottom of bioballs inhabited by anaerobic bacteria. as water moves through bioballs up to exit tube any further nitrates are removed and and sulphur(i think) is given off as byproduct. due to this water should go through aeration chamber before being fed back into tank. usually exit pipe is regulated with a tap. if too much sulphur is smelt open tap more( the recommendation ala mandarin man is to start with exit tap opened fully and allow to run for two weeks. close one quarter turn and leave for another week and close slightly (testing nitrates in tank and nitrates on exit water each time. when nitrates hit zero on exit water dont close tap any further.(this is typed on cell phone so please excuse if disjointed)ps denitrification unit must cycle.
     
  12. lIghty

    lIghty

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    So basically water runs though the length of the pipe then into the chamber full of bio balls?

    How does one protect the denitrator in event of an power failure, I've heard of guys crashing their tank when the power comes on? If I remember correctly the over came this by installing a small drain line on the chamber, so it would drain the chamber empty when supply is stopped.
     
  13. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    that is the problem with these things, if it drained or putrified due power failure, you would/could bomb tank (killed my nenny)and would haveto start whole setup again. hence me doing dsb ,and refugium with algae
     
  14. Louis Scheepers

    Louis Scheepers

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    I dont think a coil denitrator is the ultimate setup (I also prefer a dsb), but if you have limited space, then it works fine!

    I don't have a drain pipe, and have never had problems after power failures! All bacteria needs a constant flow to survive, it the water flow stops for a couple of hours, bacteria will start dying, in a coil dinitrator, in live rock and in a dsb... so you have the risk with any biological filtration method.

    I only once had a problem after I was on holiday for 4 weeks, the drip rate almost stopped... when I got home I smelled the water coming from the dinitrator and smelled the sulfur (rotten egg smell). I drained the dinitrator in a bucket, and started it again, no problems, no loss of livestock.

    Even some dsb's may produce sulfur, and I have read that it isn't bad for your tank, as long as it isn't to much...
     
  15. mandarinman

    mandarinman

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    if you have a small 38 litre(my tank at the time) nano it will cause a big hassle as it changes the ph very quickly in a small amount of water, in a dsb however it takes much longer for a problem to occur due to volume of water above it. i think a denitrator may be for some people, but not for me. good luck tho if you do have one that you are happy with( i am negatively opinioned due to my own experience)
     
    Last edited: 17 Mar 2010
  16. Louis Scheepers

    Louis Scheepers

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    This could be true!!! With such a small amount of water, that sulfur migh poison the system pretty quick :nono:!!! So a drain valve might be worth investigating!
     
  17. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    Are we talking about a carbon source driven coil denitrator or a simple coil denitrator?
     
  18. Louis Scheepers

    Louis Scheepers

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    A bilogical one that matures and works basically like a dsb... so I quess a simple coil denitrator...
     
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