Detailed form submitted: Mr_G

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by Mr_G, 15 Sep 2010.

  1. Mr_G

    Mr_G

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    Detailed help request
    Are you experiencing any problems in your tank?
    Yes
    Brief Description
    Nitrate level way to high
    Tank size
    800 x 500 x 500
    System Volume
    200L
    How long has your tank been running?
    7 weeks
    What livestock do you have?
    2 clownfish, 1 bluemoon, 2 turbosnails
    Water Parameters
    nitrate: 2mg/L
    temp : 26C
    pH: 8.0
    What lighting is over the tank?
    -
    Pumps and equipment
    via aqua hang on filter/skimmer, UV sterfilizer filter
    Maintenance
    synthetic salt
    Other info and photo's.
    my nitrate just keeps on getting worse, i see my coral doesnt want to open all the way up anymore, Im not sure what you call it, saw it here where someone said they got something on there liverock and not sure what coral it was, it is a easy coral tho, but I cant get my nitrate down, just keeps getting worse, Im far away from a marine petshop, so in desperate I used some of the koi's Bioclear from Que Sera, should I do awater change? ive got no liverock only biorock, what will happen if I get some liverock now? i can only get to a petshop on saturday...my fish looks fine...
     
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  3. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    A Nitrate level of 2 is very low, but perfect, absolutely nothing to worry about.

    Fish can survive in Nitrate levels of well over 100, LPS and soft corals will be fine in levels up to about 20, above that you need to start looking into getting it down, especially sps corals. So your level of 2 is 100%. I try to keep my nitrate at about 5 or so.
     
  4. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    well I use que sera No2 test kit, and they recon it is dangerous and I should get toxivec and bioclear and do water change... The scale they use is 0mg/L - yellow 0.5mg/L - light orange 1mg/L - orange 2mg/L - dark orange 3mg/L - red and red is the highest on their scale, im at dark orange now... Water looks clear but I smell the algae in it, doesnt smell so clean as it did on the beginning...
     
  5. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    We are talking about completely different things here. Nitrate is not N02 but N03, you are talking about nitrite, which at those levels is a bad thing. Check with another test kit though as the sera ones aren't to good. Don't add any chemicals to the tank, a water change would help and also add some seachem stability
     
  6. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Agreed.

    Nitrite can be toxic, if your tank is only 7 weeks old I would venture a guess that maybe it hasn't finished the cycle yet.

    As manic said, get yourself a bottle of Seachem Stability, this will go a long way in helping prevent toxic levels being reached and to help safeguard your fish, it will also add bacteria to your tank which I think your tank may be lacking seeing as you only have bio-rock in the tank, this is possibly why the cycle is taking so long.
     
  7. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    Sorry to say that the via aqua is not a very good skimmer, i would reccommend replacing it with a reeftek skimmer and get a DSB going, should reduce nitrates to near 0
     
  8. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    im busy with a desgn on my tank, want to get a overflow on the one side, with a pump, so I can get a sump under with a decent skimmer and dsb going, what else do I need in the sump except the skimmer, dsb, heater? Would like to know beforhand...why do you put lights on the dsb? To grow bacteria... im learning each day, this site really does have knowledgeable people...lol...
     
  9. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    Ok, so took out 30L water and replaced it, so hopefully it will be lower, should I add some more Bioclear I got, can only get decent stuff on Saturday
     
  10. Falcon

    Falcon

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    Dont throw him off track,there is no need to blame skimmer or use dsb to sort out what is a nitrite problem in a tank which is still cycling:whistling:,like the others said add bacteria,preferably the types that thrive in salt water...seachem stability will work and I find the brightwells microbacter 7 to be a very good product.stuff like prodibio will also work.

    Oh and one more thing MR g dont rush or this is just the beginning of your problems,what i mean is dont add anything else for atleast another two months!lseriously i know you eager but be patient and you will succeed.:)

    For long term planning I do recommend a dsb as big as you can go to rid your tank of nitrates and some phosban as a control for phosphates.
     
    Last edited: 15 Sep 2010
  11. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    before you go ahead and add a sump, please sketch it up in google sketchup, and post it on the forum so that we can help you with advice before you actually build it .....
     
  12. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    thanx guys, I see the water change did nothing...lol... So I will go to my petshop on saturday, should they not have sumps? i would rather pay for a sump than build it, when I builded my fish tank, the top sliding glass was the last to go on, and I cut my thumb, had to get stiches,and it was badly infected, a few days later welding the stand I used all PPE bugt when I hit the flux after I welded I took of my safety glasses and carbon came into my eye, had two eye ops since then, so ja, this tank has been bad luck since then, if my last things die in my tank, I will get new water and coral, and start over, and take it slowelly...lol...im not a very patient person...
     
  13. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    some of the sponsors will make custom sumps for sure, but i wouldnt trust other shops selling sumps as many people have been sold archaic sumps in the past.

    Is your tank drilled? if not how do you plan on creating the overflow? An overflow box with a syphon?

    when working with glass insist that the thicker glass is bevelled and thinner glass is sanded.... should be no chance of cutting yourself ( I say this with experience similar to yours with cutting myself badly on my first sump build using glass that was not sanded )
     
  14. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    Well, the plan is to create an overflow box, and then a pump inside the box where my filter hangs now, it is complicated to explain, will create a drawing now, Im a draughtsman, so I can make a drawing in no time...lol... i use solidedge, not google sketch, can someone just show me detail of how a sump should look like...?
     
  15. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    I would strongly reccommend that you do not have a 2 pump system as this WILL lead to a flood sooner or later, either the overflow or return must be gravity driven

    here is a simple sump

    chamber 1 skimmer
    chamber 2 DSB
    Chamber 3 return / chem

    [​IMG]
     
  16. chikaboo

    chikaboo

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    Hi there Mr g .... most guys have 3 or 4 compartment sumps ..... 1 for your skimmer then the largest area possible for a DSB and then there is a return chamber where this "filtered clean" water collects and houses a return pump to send the water back ..... but some of us have like a built in top up chamber or a live rock chamber or a chamber to house chemical reactors for like carbon and so forths .... what is the available area (dimensions plz) to keep this sump then we can help you design something
     
  17. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    Ok, but I have a slight problem, I can do gravity feed, but then I need to make a hole in the side of the glass, and tbh, Im not good a cutgting glass...lol... Im probibly the worst...so thats a major problem,else I must empty the tank, ahve a piece cut, and rebuild it, but thats my last option at this stage, surelly I can put a overflow cut off switch in? I will spend the beter time of my day today to figure something out...
     
  18. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Nooooooo dude, dont do it ......

    drill the tank........
     
  19. JD167

    JD167

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    Mr_G, the sump/overflow idea, I suggest you do as the guys said and have a overflow put in. Like Neil H said, if you have a pump in the tank pushing water down to the sump, you are asking for a flood. If your return pump fails the one inside the tank will empty the entire DT on your floor. :nono: Even if the power goes off the vacuum created by the initial flow will cause water to keep flowing and empty the entire system to your sump and on your floor. All your Corals and LS gone.

    Get someone to host your LS for a while, empty the tank and take it to a LFS that can drill a hole for you and build a propper overflow. You WON'T be sorry. Your tank has only been running for 7 weeks so it's not so bad.
     
  20. Mr_G

    Mr_G Thread Starter

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    Cool, i can rebuild a tank for like R400, so maybe I should just design a new one, rebuild a new one, and when the time is right, just red it all, I dont know anyone who can take care of my coral and livestock while I do this,BTW when I went to buy crushed coral, they gave me sand, is that right?
     
  21. chikaboo

    chikaboo

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    Try to get members around Springs/Brakpan area here on the forum and private message them to meet up with them to ask them to babysit ... there are a few guys around you that are members here .... crushed coral if not maintained will cause what we call a detritus trap .... a place where dead rotting food and other wastes will get trapped which in turn whill cause trouble in the tank .... so yes a better substrate would be sand or arragonite ..... the finer the better
     
    Last edited: 16 Sep 2010
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