Detailed form submitted: David Victor

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by David Victor, 25 Jan 2012.

  1. David Victor

    David Victor

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    Location:
    Port Elizabeth
    Detailed help request
    Are you experiencing any problems in your tank?
    Yes
    Brief Description
    The coralline algae in my tank keeps bleaching. It seems to start showing and then all of a sudden it goes completely white.
    Tank size
    1500, 600, 600
    System Volume
    +- 550L
    How long has your tank been running?
    8 Years +
    What livestock do you have?
    Fish:
    Yellow Tang
    Pajama Tang
    Brown Surgeon
    Cleaner Wrasse
    Common Clown
    Yellow Tail Damsels
    Goldie

    Corals:
    Sun Coral
    Moonstone
    Tongue
    Anchor
    Frog Spawn
    Galaxy
    Fox Glove
    Cup
    Clams

    Anemones:
    Stoi Cactus
    White, Purple Tipped (Not Sure About The Type.)
    Little Purple Carpet.
    Water Parameters
    Alkalinity: 7.6 (dKH)
    Calcium: 450
    Potassium: 422
    Magnesium: 1400
    pH: 8
    Nitrite: 0
    Nitrate: 0
    Ammonia: 0
    Salinity: 1.025
    Temperature: 26-27
    Iron: 0.05
    Iodine: 0.09
    What lighting is over the tank?
    ODYSSEA
    GIESEMANN AQUAPINK T-5 80W
    GIESEMANN AQUABLUE+ T-5 80W

    ODYSSEA
    GIESEMANN ACTINIC+ T-5 80W
    GIESEMANN AQUABLUE+ T-5 80W
    Pumps and equipment
    Return pump: 2000lp/h
    Internal: 2000lp/h
    Skimmer: Berlin Extra Length; Eighm Pump
    Maintenance
    Water Changes: Every 21 Days, Mainly Water Collected From The Sea.
    Lights Are Only Four Months Old.
    Phospha-Guard
    Charcoal
    Additives:
    Purple Up: Was Adding Everyday, Now Only Three Times A Week.
    Calcium: Was Adding Everyday, Have Not Added In Awhile Because Calcium Readings Were 500+.
    Magnesium: 5ml A Week
    Strontium: 5ml A Week
    Iodine: 5ml A Week
    Other info and photo's.
    -
     
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  3. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    Do you have a sea urchin?
     
  4. David Victor

    David Victor Thread Starter

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    No I don't, we do have one Hermit Crab though.
     
  5. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    OK sometimes Urchins eat the coralline algae.

    The only thing i can see from your parameters is that your alkalinity is a little low for a Ca level of 450. I would suggest to get the alkalinity up to dKH12 if you want to run your system at Ca 450. Else drop your Ca to 420 and keep your dKH at about 8.
     
  6. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Just wanna make sure, this is surely a typo? Only 2000lph internal flow for a 5ft tank?
     
  7. David Victor

    David Victor Thread Starter

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    How can we get the alkalinity up? we have got reefbuffer but it doesnt seem to be helping. The internal is a 2000lp/h and we also have the flow from the return pump.
     
  8. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    The flow is way too little. What flow pump is it? Is it Seio or Sunsun? Or one of the normal little pumps with the small outlet? You need about 20-40 times flow in the tank depending on the corals, which means you need 11000lph to 22000lph devided into 4 or so flow pumps. @irie ivan will give you a run down.

    I used bicarbonate of soda to raise the kH. I used two teaspoons in a 2l bottle dissolved and dripped it into the tank in a couple of hours. But, every tank is different. Yours might need more. You can also drip kalkwasser through an auto top unit.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  9. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    Check if your reef buffer is balanced or not. Most are so you end up increasing Ca as well.

    What calcium are you adding to keep the Ca at 450 ?

    If your pH is lower than 8.3 then use sodium carbonate. (washing soda). It will kelp lift the PH as well. If the pH is higher than 8.3 then use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) as it will not increase the pH as much.

    As @Tobes says, the internal circulation is very low.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  10. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    Agreed with nemos janitor. With corraline you should look at ca, alk, mg and iodine, which except for alk is fine. Bleaching also occurs due to intense lighting, which I doubt is the case in your system. Temperature is also a major contributing factor.
    Some considerations:
    To my knowledge, purple up, aragamilk, and aragamight all contain powdered aragonite, which once settled is a phenomenal growth substrate for corraline and coral planulae. However, the undissolved powder causes havoc with titration tests such as Mg, Ca and Alk.
    Perhaps the reason you are experiencing low alk, regardless of addition, is due to it being consumed as fast as it is added.... On top of that, not all the coralline "food" is biologically available.

    And then of course there is flow.... Loads required to ensure gas exchange, nutrient transport over the coralline surface and temperature regulation.
    Growth, photosynthesis is a process which involes energy, required and created. Energy =heat. Lack of flow = overheat=process cancelled.
    I made that last sentence up, but it kinda makes sense?
     
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  11. David Victor

    David Victor Thread Starter

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    hello guys, thanks very much for the input. This really helped me a lot and i now have learnt some valuable information. We will be increasing the flow by dramatically. We are also buffing up the alkalinity, Thanks Dave and Mike.
     
  12. crispin

    crispin

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    very intresting thread and ve been enjoying reading it, thanks to those that have contributed.

    David, firstly stop holding out on us and give us a few pics of that tank....8 years old and matured to the state that you ahve such high corraline growth it has to be worth seeing, sharing is caring ok!

    whilst i think the above posts are the correct prognosis for the bleaching, i have a nag at the back of my mind that it might have something to do with your '21 day water change, mainly from sea water' You will know better than us, but could there be a few days time correlation between the water change and the bleaching...either before or after. If after it would suggest pollution or a rapid change of parameters causeing the issue, if before it may point to a deficiency in parameters (as already discussed) and maybe a sollution would be a quicker water change. PLEASE note: just random thoughts to be used or not as you wish.

    the other point i would like to raise is that excessive corraline growth might be a problem for you down the road if it gets too thick and chockes the LR. coraline maywell 'seal in' the LR or at least impare water movement into and out of LR reducing the filtration of the LR. That is one of the main reasons i realy enjoy having sea urchins as they clear coraline away from the LR opening the passage ways out...and i like the spikey things anyway:)
     
  13. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    Interesting point Crispin....... Its what I love about this hobby........ Trying to figure out exactly what is going on inside those glass walls.
     
  14. crispin

    crispin

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    agreed and its amazing how often one can see a slightly different angle to the same issue even when you dont know the other persons system. not alwasy spot on, but its great to think and attempt to asscertain whats happening in a glass box:)

    although as I say, i think the above mentioned advice is more likley spot on.
     
  15. David Victor

    David Victor Thread Starter

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    Hi guys, our previous tank was a standard 4ft and although we enjoyed it very much we did not spend the effort and money as we have on our new tank. I will be uploading pictures very soon. Will just need to figure out more about photography on the marine tank. Thanks for all the input, much appreciated. We made the swop about 4 months ago, we took over the existing sump and live rock
     
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