thanks soo much you guys are really helpful.thanks keyaam for the advice.
dajee 1.2 meter tank
- Thread starter dajicorp
- Start date
dajicorp in my experience "cheap" does not exist with lights, spend some good money there, you will be very happy with the results.
For lights i you should go for T5 or Metal Halide.
There is a lot of opinion around both, i sit with T5 being better in SO many ways as the benefits are:
You can add or remove bulbs as you wish
You can play with colour combos
You can play with light position
You can switch on as you choose (1 at a time or all at once)
I am going to get shot for this, I'm hiding away now:
If you use the correct light combination you can get stronger light with less watt, namely if you have space for 6 bulbs 2 should be 10000k or 1 10000k and 1 12000k and 4 actinic 20000k bulbs, as this makes the light go deeper and has more benefits for the coral (look at American tanks for more info)
I just find it works better.
Not going to say anymore about this "Combo subject" as to not get some people very unhappy.
Also with T5 you can lets say:
If you want to get 6 T5 over your tank in total then you can buy one duel ballast one month with bulbs and reflector the next month buy another month after that buy one more, unlike MH where you have to buy it one time and if you want to you can add more at a later stage.
But the best advice i can give you is talk to Obi wan or Aquility, same person different names, on this forum will give you the best advice you can ask for.
Good luck!
For lights i you should go for T5 or Metal Halide.
There is a lot of opinion around both, i sit with T5 being better in SO many ways as the benefits are:
You can add or remove bulbs as you wish
You can play with colour combos
You can play with light position
You can switch on as you choose (1 at a time or all at once)
I am going to get shot for this, I'm hiding away now:
If you use the correct light combination you can get stronger light with less watt, namely if you have space for 6 bulbs 2 should be 10000k or 1 10000k and 1 12000k and 4 actinic 20000k bulbs, as this makes the light go deeper and has more benefits for the coral (look at American tanks for more info)
I just find it works better.
Not going to say anymore about this "Combo subject" as to not get some people very unhappy.
Also with T5 you can lets say:
If you want to get 6 T5 over your tank in total then you can buy one duel ballast one month with bulbs and reflector the next month buy another month after that buy one more, unlike MH where you have to buy it one time and if you want to you can add more at a later stage.
But the best advice i can give you is talk to Obi wan or Aquility, same person different names, on this forum will give you the best advice you can ask for.
Good luck!
leslie hempel
Professional Aquarist
dajicorp in my experience "cheap" does not exist with lights, spend some good money there, you will be very happy with the results.
For lights i you should go for T5 or Metal Halide.
There is a lot of opinion around both, i sit with T5 being better in SO many ways as the benefits are:
You can add or remove bulbs as you wish
You can play with colour combos
You can play with light position
You can switch on as you choose (1 at a time or all at once)
I am going to get shot for this, I'm hiding away now:
If you use the correct light combination you can get stronger light with less watt, namely if you have space for 6 bulbs 2 should be 10000k or 1 10000k and 1 12000k and 4 actinic 20000k bulbs, as this makes the light go deeper and has more benefits for the coral (look at American tanks for more info)
I just find it works better.
Not going to say anymore about this "Combo subject" as to not get some people very unhappy.
Also with T5 you can lets say:
If you want to get 6 T5 over your tank in total then you can buy one duel ballast one month with bulbs and reflector the next month buy another month after that buy one more, unlike MH where you have to buy it one time and if you want to you can add more at a later stage.
But the best advice i can give you is talk to Obi wan or Aquility, same person different names, on this forum will give you the best advice you can ask for.
Good luck!
na there are many ways to skin a cat here, find what suits your needs but the above suggestion is a good guideline fot T5.. as hailides generate considerable heat in the absence of ventilation...get what you can afford.. you can always upgrade later.. and realise why you spend the cash.. learning is a very important part of this whole thing..
hi guys.over the weekend I got two globe T5 light and was wondering if I could remove my three t8s and put in three T5 globes.
Although in the long run i think your gonna need atleast around five t5's to keep a nemmie happy,but three for now is a good start for your soft corals etc that are already in the tank.much much better than t8!if you can for now then why not leave your three t8's with the new t5's until you get all t5's?
yip.but by the end i will have 5 t5s.
Your sump, move the ceramic rings to the last chamber, all of it.
Remove the middle glass pane, and make that area your DSB. When that is cured, healthy and ready, start per week to remove the ceramic rings.
I have the exact same sump. First chamber is my DSB, second, busy removing ceramic rings. Skimmer and return pump in last. Skimmer outlet is back to second chamber.
When second chamber is empty, I want to block off the flow underneath, and use the second area as a second DSB. Actually I should remove the two glass panes on the left, but I do not want to. And the overflow, got a 90 degree bend, with a horizontal pipe on water level with the end blocked off and 10mm holes driled in it facing to the left. Then the water flow in slow and no sandstorms.
Remove the middle glass pane, and make that area your DSB. When that is cured, healthy and ready, start per week to remove the ceramic rings.
I have the exact same sump. First chamber is my DSB, second, busy removing ceramic rings. Skimmer and return pump in last. Skimmer outlet is back to second chamber.
When second chamber is empty, I want to block off the flow underneath, and use the second area as a second DSB. Actually I should remove the two glass panes on the left, but I do not want to. And the overflow, got a 90 degree bend, with a horizontal pipe on water level with the end blocked off and 10mm holes driled in it facing to the left. Then the water flow in slow and no sandstorms.
Tobes
Retired Moderator
It is usually best to put the skimmer in the first one. The reason for this is should the skimmer be after the DSB, you can skim out some of your copepods and amphipods that was on their way to the main display where they would be enjoyed by your fish. It is not wrong to put it in other chambers, just more pod friendly in the first one
.Also your skimmer can take out some leftover food and poo before it can settle on the DSB and cause water quality problems. Unless you have a gastropod(snails) or 2 stirring and cleaning the sand. IMHO
GOOD POINT TOBES! unfortunately i setup my skimmer in the third compartment when i was a newbie around three years ago and its a real mission to change that layout now!will probably have to destroy my whole sump which is something i dont wanna do as my system is already stable.
but if i had to do it again my skimmer would definitely be first!
but if i had to do it again my skimmer would definitely be first!
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Tobes
Retired Moderator
Like I said, it's not wrong, it's just a bit better in my view. Some setups just don't have the space, so 2nd best is better than nothing. At least the skimmer is active in the system
...now go and cry because of all the pods you killed :razz:
Like I said, it's not wrong, it's just a bit better in my view. Some setups just don't have the space, so 2nd best is better than nothing. At least the skimmer is active in the system
...now go and cry because of all the pods you killed :razz:
oh you gotta rub it in dont you!!!!lol but my corals probably hate me for the amount of pod eggs etc (that come from my refuguim) i've deprived them of
hi guys havent posted in a long time.please help urgently, my ragal tang has some kind of bubble over her eye and the body is coverd in white spot.please advice of what i should do.please please!
what i normally do when my fish get WS is... i increase temp to 28-29 and i lower my S.G to 1.020
if the eye is bulding out then its called a popeye:
* air bubble trapped behind the eye - 1) Reduce fine air bubbles floatin in tank. 2) if an air bubble is visible above or behind the eyeball, it can be punctured with a very fine hollow needle_ leave this to an experienced reefer)
* Bacterial Infection - 1) Threat with medication ( Bacterial infection are usually associated with poor water quality, check your parameters)
if the eye is bulding out then its called a popeye:
* air bubble trapped behind the eye - 1) Reduce fine air bubbles floatin in tank. 2) if an air bubble is visible above or behind the eyeball, it can be punctured with a very fine hollow needle_ leave this to an experienced reefer)
* Bacterial Infection - 1) Threat with medication ( Bacterial infection are usually associated with poor water quality, check your parameters)
Tobes
Retired Moderator
The cleaner shrimp should sort it out. Don't let Dori stress more and make sure she is eating. Depending on her condition you can give her a fresh water dip to kill the parasites (white spot). Read first on exactly how to do it - I'm not too sure. I would not advise dosing chemicals in the main display because of the corals - they don't like it and can die. Put the fish in a quarentine tank and then treat with medicine. If the fish is too weak, don't take it out or let it stress more - hopefully the cleaner will doctor her
thanks guys i did as told and the ws went away.thanks