Cyano/NO CYANO and its relation to use of a chiller.

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by Falcon, 29 Dec 2009.

Voter count: 31
?

CYANO RELATION TO YOUR TANK TEMPERATURE?

  1. My tanks have cyano during winter and summer,i have a chiller.

    3 vote(s)
    9.7%
  2. My tanks have cyano during winter and summer,i have NO chiller.

    3 vote(s)
    9.7%
  3. My tanks have cyano during winter and summer,but tank has constant temp below 26-27 degrees.

    3 vote(s)
    9.7%
  4. My tanks have cyano ONLY in summer,I have a chiller.

    2 vote(s)
    6.5%
  5. My tanks have cyano ONLY in summer,I have NO chiller.

    2 vote(s)
    6.5%
  6. My tanks have cyano ONLY in summer,I have NO chiller,but temp remains constant below 26-27 degrees.

    1 vote(s)
    3.2%
  7. NO cyano ever,I have a chiller or my tank temp stays constant always below 26-27 degrees.

    7 vote(s)
    22.6%
  8. No cyano ever,no chiller.

    12 vote(s)
    38.7%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Falcon

    Falcon

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    OK so it seems to me that temperature was a major factor in a recent cyano outbreak I'm having in 2 out of my three tanks.

    the third tank always has low temperatures as it is in a warehouse/open area where in winter even three heaters don't maintain the temps..


    so if you have a chiller and dont have cyano since installing a chiller or can offer any insight into CYANO RELATION TO CONSTANT TEMPS OF +-25 DEGREES then please do.
    don't forget to vote above!
     
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  3. Falcon

    Falcon Thread Starter

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    OOPS! the first three should read "My tanks have cyano during winter and summer..."

    not "no" cyano can a mod please change this?
     
  4. Sentari

    Sentari

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    Falcon i had cyno and now i dont... My temp fluctuates from 25 - 31.
     
  5. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Poll edited :)
     
  6. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    The options are a bit confusing. My tank has small patches of cyano bacterial growth during summer and winter, and I have a chiller, BUT my tank's temperature is very constant between 26°C and 27°C, so I guess options 1 and 3 would be correct...

    I don't think that a chiller has anything to do with this.

    Hennie
     
  7. magman

    magman

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    I was thinking of this last week. With the rbay tempreture increasing, I set the chiller to 27, and within 1-2 weeks I think the cyno started. I then set the chiller to 26 and the cyno decreased slightly, and is not nearly as present. I think that the 26/27 temp is one of the factors to cyno besides just phosphates etc.
     
  8. Falcon

    Falcon Thread Starter

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    lol hennie I added these as some people dont have a chiller but have fans etc and are able to maintain low temps....makes sense as its not as constant as a chiller but still low temps...then again some peoples chiller dont keep up with the temp fluctuations but i did not want to confuse the issue too much...so yes it can be confusing but please just try to give whats suits you best.:)

    take my shop tank for example it has no chiller but temp is maintained at 25 degrees though it is very possible it can have swings during the night/day so its important that a tank with no chiller yet no swings in temp also be accounted for.trying to cater for more people here....

    thanks viper:p silly mistakes there...
     
  9. Falcon

    Falcon Thread Starter

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    what if you set your chiller to 25 and tell us what happens after a week or two?

    thats exactly along the lines i'm thinking...they obviously probably feed on phosphates but they are also encouraged by higher temps to such an extent that they can even use it up before your phosphate remover has a chance(ie out compete your other po4 removal methods)...well thats my theory but the results of the poll should help us in proving it or not.
     
  10. magman

    magman

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    the chiller has nothing to do with the cyno, it is the temp that the chiller is set at that the cyno prefers.

    I am a bit scared to put the chiller under too much strain, if the chiller packs up I have to trade tangs in for cyclids and goldies for goldfish, wrasse for guppies.

    I will do it when we out a heat wave.......:thumbup:
     
  11. Dewald@Dorry

    Dewald@Dorry

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    I had cyano when I used H2Ocean Delteck salt. But since I switched to Brightwell no issues with cyano at all!;)
     
  12. TonyDD

    TonyDD

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    Any system that is subjected to variations in stability can cause Cyano to proliferate.
    These could be:
    1 Temp swings
    2 Rapid changes in chemistry (Ca, Alk, Mag)
    3 Bacterial imbalance caused by the use of external biological filters as well as live rock
    4 Typical new system settling down, this can take anything up to a year
    5 Ph suppression, this can be caused by high CO2 content within a closed environment or very low Alkalinity. Low Ph can cause dissolution within low O2 areas of live rock as the Ph will be even lower there. This can re precipitate nutrients and effect bacterial health/balance.
    6 Over stocking/over feeding
    7 Not enough flow
    8 Rock work not open enough allowing Detritus to build.
    9 Dirty sand bed
    10 Incorrect or old lighting
    11 Incorrect or swings in salinity (large top off's with fresh water can cause swings)
    12 Not using quality RO water
    13 Rapid change of salt brand or additives
    14 Not mixing fresh batches of salt correctly, always allow new salt water to mix well and aerate for at least 24 hours

    I’m sure we could go on and on but the bottom line is stability ,stability ,stability.

    Cyanobacterias can fix gaseous nitrogen so any change in bacterial activity or nutrient levels that may drive up the amount of gaseous Nitrogen available can result in a Cyano bloom. As Gaseous Nitrogen is the end result of denitrification you may not notice a rise in Nitrate but something in the aquarium will be driving excess Nitrogen.

    One reason that those that have noticed a free fall in Nitrate after carbon dosing end up with a Cyano bloom as the Nitrates are being converted to gaseous nitrogen that can be fixed by Cyano.

    High phosphates rarely cause Cyano in my experience and usually result in green algae’s such as Bryopsis. That said aquariums with high PO4 usually have other issues that will cause livestock stress and die back that then result in nutrients that can be fixed by Cyano.

    Sorry about that, got a bit carried away there lol.

    Regards Tony
     
  13. Reef Maniac

    Reef Maniac MASA Contributor

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    TonyDD, I take it that you guys are a bit sensitive to cyano discussions at the moment :whistling: but you are missing the point of THIS particular thread (that being to determine if there is a link between higher water temperature and cyano bacterial blooms.)

    We're having an interesting (and peaceful ;)) discussion on cyano in general in this thread - feel free to join in...

    Hennie
     
  14. TonyDD

    TonyDD

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    Hiya Hennie

    [FONT=&quot]I was just perusing the forum and happened upon the thread. I think there is so much more to this than temp and was just giving my opinion as a fellow hobbyist.

    Cyano bacteria is a difficult subject, just my take.

    To respond to the O.P's question then yes I feel that adding a chiller to help reduce swings will reduce the chances of a Cyano outbreak due to stability.

    I have had seasonal Cyano that usually kicks off during the winter, this is due to the fact that my aquarium is positioned in doors and the house is shut up during the cold months. This has the effect of pulling down my Ph due to the higher than usual CO2 build up in the closed house. Not a direct effect of temperature but the result of a temperature related issue if you catch my drift.

    I now pull in fresh air directly via the skimmer ,Ph is stable, no Cyano.

    Ill have a look at the other thread Hennie, thanks for the heads up.

    Regards Tony[/FONT]
     
  15. martin

    martin Reef Adict

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    I had minor outbreaks and then reduced my temp to 24-24.5 and they quickly dissapeared. I am certain that higher temps are a factor in cyno outbreaks IMO.
     
  16. CW

    CW

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    Hi there Martin.

    Id like to add there.
    Im also experiencing problems with Cyano but i see my DT temp is about 23.2 - 24 in the mornings now. We are getting closer to winter and i dont know if this is the problem for my cyano outbrake.

    But what id just like to know ppl is how do i get completely rid of this crap and is this cyano stuff bad for my system or don i not need to worry bout it?

    Please help.

    I also do have a chiller on my system
     
  17. Falcon

    Falcon Thread Starter

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    hey cw if your temps are going as low as 23-24 then you definitely need to add more heaters in your tank boet or else in the vaals cold winters you will have losses.

    2 x 300w heaters should be enough for your tank,but since its open top you may even need an extra one!

    cyano in small quantities is not really bad but the problem is it can get out of hand very quickly and even eventually grow on your corals,the biggest problem though is that it becomes a real eyesore.
     
    Last edited: 20 Apr 2011
  18. CW

    CW

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    Hey falcon.

    ja i took my other 300w heater and added it into the dsb. Now the temp seems stable at bout 25.
    What should i do to get that cyano away boet?
    Im already cutting down on the feeding. slowly cos i dont want to shock the fish.
    One day they get loads of food and the next day nothing.

    Thanx man
     
  19. Falcon

    Falcon Thread Starter

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    perfect,don't feed less than that else they will get thin:whistling:

    as for the cyano well firstly you have to find a possible source,maybe excess phosphates?do you use any type of po4 remover?
     
  20. CW

    CW

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    I googled Cyano last night and i saw some thing that might be one of my problems.

    To mutch food - cutting down
    dirty sand - a little bit
    Low flow in areas where cyano grows - true
    Lights might be old - is 6months old?

    thats what i remember now from last night.

    Cw out:thumbup:
     
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