Cuprazin Treatment help

Joined
3 Nov 2007
Posts
5,052
Reaction score
53
Location
Westville, Durban
Hi

Need some help using Cuprazin.

Been treating my fish from my 110g reef system in a hospital tank now since Saturday, now I suspect there could be some sort of parasite in my other reef tank too, I've seen my sailfin tang rubbing against the rocks etc, can I put all the fish into the same hospital tank and restart the treatment plan or will this have an ill effect on the fish that have been in the solution for the last 5 days?
 
Joined
3 Nov 2007
Posts
5,052
Reaction score
53
Location
Westville, Durban
Contacted Waterlife today and this is what they said:

Dear Justin,
Cuprazin is a copper based medication, because of this you can not just start the course of treatment again without doing a partial water change (otherwise you could overdose with copper). The optimum levels for copper in a marine hospital tank are 0.25 to 0.3 ppm.
You can add the new fish into the same system as the fish you are already treating if you are sure that both fish have a protozoan infection, you may have to leave them in there a bit longer to make sure the disease has fully disappeared. The fish that is breathing heavy may have flukes, if this is the case then we would suggest the use of Sterazin.
If you ever want to treat the fish in the invert system without removing them for marine whitespot then we suggest that you drop the s.g down to 1.017 and treat with Octozin.
Regards,
WATERLIFE.

What you think?
 
Joined
6 Jan 2010
Posts
316
Reaction score
2
Location
Gauteng
Howzit... Bringing up an old thread here...
The Cowfish I bought from exotics has defiantly got ich... i bought a bottle of Cuprazin and the directions seem easy enough but my questing is this...

26234d70ab383e105.jpg


It says I must add treatment to tank as follows:
day 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10

now if i have a 15 liter hospital tank, do they mean i add the measured tretment over the last or do I also add new water?

Is the following the correct way to start?
Raised tank temp to fluctuate between 29 and 30 deg
Add about 7.5L tank water to hospital tank
Add Fish
Drip another 7.5L RO over say 12 hours to drop salinity
add 1ml as stated on bottle to 15L hospital tank
and just keep adding as stated on the bottle to the existing water?

Thanks,
 
Last edited:
Joined
24 Sep 2007
Posts
1,277
Reaction score
20
I dont like adding any type of medication to the display tank. How long is the tank running I have to ask. By catching fish that are already sick causes even more stress and sure death. I see many people loosing fish but how can one treat fish if your water not mature enough or stable. What ever you do good luck, and hope all survives.
 
Joined
24 Sep 2007
Posts
1,277
Reaction score
20
15L quite small hospital tank. The medication is very strong and can stress the fish and cause to die. Did you buy the fish with ich or developed at home? If you really want top use the medication use as directed and dose half instead of full dose.
 
Joined
3 Nov 2007
Posts
5,052
Reaction score
53
Location
Westville, Durban
I would not dose any copper unless you have a Cu test kit, I would rather try using a low SG 1st.

Putting him in a small 15l tank probably will stress him out, abd the water could turn bad very quickly, my hospital tank as discussed above is a about 250 litres!
 
Joined
18 Jul 2007
Posts
1,290
Reaction score
60
Location
Cape Town
my choice of treatment would be to add him to a bucket and switch buckets every 12 hours for a week with new water,sure way to cure white spot as you are throwing out the eggs before they can hatch and reinfect the fish.my treatment of choice.
Copper does come with its own side effects
 
Joined
28 Apr 2010
Posts
623
Reaction score
16
Location
Brakpan
Hi
don't know if this helps at all but i have used myxazin (reef safe) before to treat w/s in situ. If i remember correctly and don't take this as gospel as it is only from memory the active ingredients are methylene blue and rose anyline. it does not affect the spot on the fish, hence that is why they will still be there after treatment but is effective at killing the free swimming stage of the parasite. it also increases the fish’s mucus production and helps with preventing reinfection as it thickens the mucus coat.
it is removed by biodegradation and oxidation, hence the instructions to stop ozone and remove carbon.
the treatment can be completely removed with carbon. (And turn of the blue lights, skimmer and other gadgets) and increase the temp with 2 dc and drop salinity slightly. Ad a cleaner wrasse to your system they do that job in removing the spots on the fish that doesn’t die from the medication that’s their job in the wild open waters look for any cause of stress to the fish (other fish or maybe crab harassing it). adding garlic to the system or in their food also increase the immune system. by catching fish you only stress the other inmates and cause stress to your fish that can kill them. Only treat new stock with copper before introducing it to your show tank. And never ad the fish straight from the copper treatment straight in to the show tank as they will release copper to the show tank. First let it stay in a tank for an hour or two that has no meds in it. Rather use reef safe treatments like myxazin in the future.
good luck I hope this helps and he recover
 
Joined
18 Jul 2007
Posts
1,290
Reaction score
60
Location
Cape Town
@Jaco
Myxazin active ingredient is malachite green and not meth blue as you say.
I dont think it is proven reef safe although some people have used it in a reef without issues.I would not take the chance.Best to take the fish out the DT and treat seperate.
If you have to treat in QT then treat Myxazin every 12 hours.
Raising temp will increase the life cycle but dropping the salinity slightly will not make a difference,if you want to treat hypo then drop to 1.012 and assess from there.
Dont combine Hypo with meds as there are other effects on PH etc that can be worse than the parasite.
Cleaner wrasses do not remove white spot,the white spot actually is under the skin when on the fish.
I would not treat new fish with copper on a prophalactlic basis.The risks of the side effects copper are too great if you dont know why you are treating.
If you want to treat for white spot or on a prophalactic basis the bucket method as discussed above is great with no side effects.If you have white spot,check water quality firstly,then other stress triggers like bullying as Jaco says.I would not be to worried about fish releasing copper into your DT,the amount if any would be immeasurable by hobbyiest standards.
 
Last edited:

leslie hempel

Sponsor
Joined
7 May 2007
Posts
17,133
Reaction score
1,021
Location
Gonubie East London
@flappy

Just cruzing for QT ideas and came across your bucket method suggestion, do you still utilise this method?

How long do you administer this treatment for? Use black buckets? And only airstone. Just curious..

Doing some research
 

hotdog83

Clone Fish
Moderator
Joined
28 May 2008
Posts
5,167
Reaction score
1,628
Location
Cresta, JHB
Maybe I can give my bucket method, if that will help. Daily transfers with newly made up water (found my high nitrates from display causes stress in sterile qt), good flow (small flow pumps and airstone) and only feed an hour before transfer. On temperature controller so temp stays stable, found instability in temperature caused issues in past, heaters are notoriously inaccurate, temp day to day can be volatile in transfer, especially when alternating 2 different heaters daily. Currently using Sterazin, found this works the best as prophylactic, even for sensitive species. Can also use Myxazin, but Sterazin is basically Myxazin with a dewormer (Piperazine) added. I successfully qt-ed both a blue spotted Anampses and both my regal angels (one had brooklynella after the UV broke in June) this way with Sterazin, found in past other meds can be harsh on sensitive species. Also qt-ed about 20 fish infected with Brooklynella at once like this in 30 liters in June and didn't lose one. I do this for 5-10 days depending on where the fish came from (TMC 5 days, dodgy lfs 10 days). I use a big 120 liter container, but only fill it up with either 20 or 30 liters (depending on size/amount of fish), so you get maximum surface area for good dissolved oxygen while not using copious amounts of salt.
 
Joined
18 Jul 2007
Posts
1,290
Reaction score
60
Location
Cape Town
@leslie hempel
Yes still using the bucket transfer method with good success since that post in 2011 and even before then...I use clear Addis Containers so I can easily view the fish. I transfer for 10 days with no meds. I have a separate heater and small powerhead in each container. Between transfers each are rinsed with freshwater and dried out. I only treat when I see bacterial or fluke infections. The transfer takes care of any parasite that would have a life cycle where it would attach to the fish and fall off the fish. I use display tank water when transferring to build immunity in the new fish to any parasites that surely will be in the display where the existing fish in the display already have immunity and are living with the parasite in a controlled environment. The aim of the bucket transfer method is not eradication (As a cyst can live on a fish for months without falling off) but rather to reduce risk of infection and to build and match immunity of the fish to the display they are going into.
 

leslie hempel

Sponsor
Joined
7 May 2007
Posts
17,133
Reaction score
1,021
Location
Gonubie East London
@leslie hempel
Yes still using the bucket transfer method with good success since that post in 2011 and even before then...I use clear Addis Containers so I can easily view the fish. I transfer for 10 days with no meds. I have a separate heater and small powerhead in each container. Between transfers each are rinsed with freshwater and dried out. I only treat when I see bacterial or fluke infections. The transfer takes care of any parasite that would have a life cycle where it would attach to the fish and fall off the fish. I use display tank water when transferring to build immunity in the new fish to any parasites that surely will be in the display where the existing fish in the display already have immunity and are living with the parasite in a controlled environment. The aim of the bucket transfer method is not eradication (As a cyst can live on a fish for months without falling off) but rather to reduce risk of infection and to build and match immunity of the fish to the display they are going into.
Awsome I love your thought process makes complete sence! Thank you for the reply, I've finally put together a quarantine set up. I'm tired of risking my fishes health. But ironically my fish got sick from using the same hoses that had some water in from a friends tank that we did a water change on and his fish were sic

And of course powder blue and goldrim are first to break out.

Thanks for the info. I'm looking at various methods as I want to start dabbling in some high end fish soon!
 

Similar threads


Top