Correct glass thickness for my cube?

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by BushBaBy, 26 Jun 2013.

  1. BushBaBy

    BushBaBy

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    Hi MASA

    I am interested in setting up a .9m x .9m starfire rimless cube that is visible on 3 sides. I would prefer to stay with 10mm glass if possible but want to hear your input on whether or not it will be fine. If not, what do you recommend for a .9m x .9m cube? Also what thickness does the base glass need to be? What else can I do to make it safer and what other support can I give it?

    I would prefer a tank height of .65m or maximum of .7m. Would this be fine and how could I work all of this out? I love reading/calculating so if you have any articles, reading material or online tools please link them below. I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thank you,
     
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  3. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    hi

    if you going rimless and a max height of 650mm water at 630mm you are ok with 10mm, but you will be needing a double base, making it 20mm, but you are going starphire which is a little weaker so 12mm is my recommendation else no higher than 500mm
     
  4. belindamotion

    belindamotion Google Master

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    Try this calculator...up the safety factor..
    http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium
     
  5. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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  6. BushBaBy

    BushBaBy Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the replies.

    I have been using the tool you linked above belinda and it said 9mm was perfect so was a little worried. I would rather be safer and lose the look I want than have something happen to the tank down the line.

    If you were building a 900mm x 900mm x 650mm cube with starfire on 3 sides what glass would you go with and what support/bracing would you add?
     
  7. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    if i was going that route with no bracing i would use 12mm sides and 20mm base ( 2 x 10mm siliconed together) here is a pic from one of my builds.

    if i wanted 10mm sides and 20mm base i would add euro bracing

    [​IMG]
     
  8. belindamotion

    belindamotion Google Master

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    On a 900 by 900 with 650H and a safety factor of 3.8...the tool tells me 11....so I'll do 12..:) But Dallas says this doesn't work for Low Iron...although 12 with a double base sounds good to me...if you brace it also...if no bracing, then I'll do 14...I'm not the best person to ask then as I don't have a Low Iron Calculation..(I always go next thickness higher)..:blush:
     
  9. BushBaBy

    BushBaBy Thread Starter

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    So for peace of mind I should probably go with 10mm euro bracing (no center bracing) and 20mm base?

    I would rather add that extra factor of peace of mind without it affecting the cost to much.

    Would 10mm euro bracing be stronger than 12mm braceless?
     
  10. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    here is a great cube build except its 500mm high rimless
     
  11. BushBaBy

    BushBaBy Thread Starter

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    Not sure if you ment to link something?
     
  12. Visser

    Visser MASA Contributor

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    For starphire glass, you can still use the same calculator as the force applied on the panes will remain the same, but increase the safety factor to 4.0! This will probably increase the recommended glass thickness by +-20%
     
  13. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    google Iwagami Reef
     
  14. brentv

    brentv

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    I have a brand new tank these exact dimensions here in CT with stand LED lighting wave pumps etc etc.. All brand new in the box!
    I'm sure you've seen my thread, I'm building a concrete built in tank of 1500x1200
    So I'm considering selling this...
    It is spanking new 900x900x700 (water height just over 600) all built perfectly in black silicone..... Wanna make me an offer;)
     
  15. Xenobalistes

    Xenobalistes

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    I still find it strange how everyone seems to think that thickening the base will make the tank more stable. (Although it's not advisable) you can use thin glass for the base - provided that your stand/plinth is dead level. The base shouldn't flex AT ALL if the base is level, so thin glass is fine. In the 40+ years that we've been building marine tanks, I've never gone above 10mm for a base (and I've had a couple of VERY big tanks) - and never had bases cracking - because I always make sure that the stand is dead level.
     
  16. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    it just makes it more forgiving, with the cost of glass its a few rand more to have a thicker base
     
  17. brentv

    brentv

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    True Dallas, I've always done 10mm glass up too 650 H, but I agree with the above, but unforeseen issues it might all be level but after 6 months concrete below tank sags:blush:
    So I up this thickness to 12mm for a few extra bob..:thumbup:
     
  18. Xenobalistes

    Xenobalistes

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    I've always found the sheer extra weight of a double-based big tank negates any benefits of using a thicker base.
     
  19. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    you carry your tanks around that the weights an issue?
     
  20. Visser

    Visser MASA Contributor

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    :lol:

    Put your tanks on wheels like me... Makes it a breeze to "carry around"
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 26 Jun 2013
  21. carlosdeandrade

    carlosdeandrade

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    until something else moves.:p
     
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