Copper

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by Rax123, 14 Apr 2008.

  1. Rax123

    Rax123

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    regel tang has some white spots,again. will copper kill my ears?
     
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  3. lappiesreef

    lappiesreef

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    I think so
     
  4. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    Don't ever put copper into a reef tank!
     
  5. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    I wouldn't put it in your ears either:lol:
     
  6. Rax123

    Rax123 Thread Starter

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    just as i thought, dham, means i need a hospital tank,wounder if i can use a bucket.:banghead:
     
  7. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    A hospital or quarantine tank is always a very good idea, having said that, after all these years I still don't have one. :blushing:

    How bad is the whitespot? Is the fish still eating? Is it a new addition to the tank?

    My regal tang get's whitespot outbreaks at least once a month, but he's as fat and healthy as anything.
     
  8. Rax123

    Rax123 Thread Starter

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    hi viper, got him 4 3weeks, eats like pig and craps like a horse. white spots looks pretty bad,gonna raise temp to about 28-29.
     
  9. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    According to an fish health expert i know, whitespot kills between 60-80% of affected fish, it is worth quarantining all your fish and corals, there are no reefsafe whitespot removal methods, turning you temp up or reducing salinity can have a bad effect on your corals or inverts.
     
  10. Rax123

    Rax123 Thread Starter

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    wee-man ,will 28 deg. be too high for the ears? will puting this fish in another tank not stress it further?thats partly concern.
     
  11. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    Yes, putting a fish into quarantine will stress it, but removing whitespot from your tank is the priority, remove all fish, treat with copper, then allow a 10 week "fallow" period in your tank (no fish) to kill off the parasite totally, then replace the fish.
    I accept this may not be easy, but if you really want to sort the problem out, once and for all, then the above is really the only way to go.
     
  12. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Another possibility Wee-Man, which he can try (this worked for me, might be worthwhile trying) is to raise the alkalinity to e.g. 12/13 dKh (upper limit) in the tank water..... My new coral beauty angel also got whitespot, because my bristletooth chased it around when I added the coral beauty angel - it then got whitespot. I upped the alkalinity and basically a a few hours later the whitespot was gone....
    I think that that water being far more alkaline, that the whitespot (c. irritans) tomites (I think this is correct?) does not survive....
     
  13. lappiesreef

    lappiesreef

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    I heard that if you drop your salinity it also get rids of the parasite rather quickly. I saw it at an LFS as well... Cant remember how far they dropped it, but it was very low... Not good long term for your corals, but might do the trick...
     
  14. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    One of the health experts on a uk forum i use is the Fish health Professor for a US college, the info i posted before is info i gained from him.
    There are methods other than quarantine, BUT, they can have a detrimental effect on your corals or inverts, recently a bloke tried the hyposalinity method and killed his starfish, he tried this depsite being told QT was the only "safe method" of ridding your tank of whitespot.
    I think there are too many myths surrounding WS removal, having read much on the subject, all the experts agree QT is the best/safest methods.
    No other method will remove the WS in all it's stages from your reef.
     
  15. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    rather use UV. got rid of my whitespot. weeman's fallow idea is correct. but i reckon 4 weeks will do the job with no fish around.
     
  16. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    Sorry bud, but that is not only wrong, but misleading, 10 weeks is the recognised minimum in the fallow period, i accept UV can help, but it will not get rid totally.
     
  17. Rax123

    Rax123 Thread Starter

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    any ideas on a simple QT.should i buy a small tank?
     
  18. Mike

    Mike Retired Moderator

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    A QT tank needs to have a light, a powerhead (or 2) a heater, an external filter for mechanical removal of crap and an airstone.
    You can use old tank water from the main tank to seed the filters, alternatively you can dump your sponges into the sump for a week to seed them - just remember not to return any sponge to the display tank that has been in copper treated water.
    You should add some loose bits of pipe work or similar to allow your fish somewhere to hide.
    Also remember to keep the water quality up to scratch to help the fish recover.
     
  19. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Rax - if you want to - you can use a big tupperware container as well, if you want to. BUT - remember - that this container should never had any chemicals in it. Also - do NOT place corals or any inverts in the container, if you plan to use copper in the container..... It should have a heater in it, perhaps an air-stone if you want to. And a VERY small power-head. The power-head and the airstone can be swopped out....
     
  20. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Sorry bud, I can only go by what you experts say:

    "
    The Real Deal: Treating Fishes in Isolation, Allowing the Main System to "Go Fallow"
    There are no "reef-safe" and effective treatments for crypt. NONE. Curing infested fishes involves separating them from non-fish livestock and treating them in that other system (or alternatively moving the non-fish livestock). Infested systems can be made "crypt-free" or better "crypt-virulence-reduced" by having them kept free of fish hosts for several (4 or more) weeks without fishes. If practical, elevating temperatures and possibly lowering specific gravity (to the tolerance of other non-fish livestock) can be employed to "speed up" the loss of virulence of the parasites. In practical terms we are generally talking the low to mid 80's F. and 1.017-1.018... with these values adjusted over days time. Care must be exercised in not possibly transmitting disease organisms from the quarantine system... on nets, containers, hands... anything wet, and drying, otherwise sterilizing quarantine tanks and gear between uses."

    Source: IchArtMar



    "If an aquarium has no fish in it, and there are no additions of fish, or anything else that could be carrying trophonts, tomonts, tomites or theronts for a period of 6 weeks or longer, all parasites will have died. An aquarium such as this is an obvious exception to "Ich" always being present."

    Source: ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Marine "Ich"
     
  21. Midasblenny

    Midasblenny

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    Just keep feeding as much as the fish will eat and then feed it some more, seriously it should kick the disease provided its well fed a variety of food and has little stress from bullies in the tank.
     
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