Confusing Zoas

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Hi Forum,

I purchased two zoa frags about 2 weeks ago. I also have two existing zoa corals in the tank. I stuck both new zoa plugs on the same piece of rock. Initially both frags looked happy and opened nicely. The last couple of days the one frag has been closed. The other frag is fully open but it looks like its loosing colour in the middle. The old zoas are still looking happy as ever. Any advise?

Its a 128L Boyu TL 550 tabk with 1201 zetlights. Tested water perameters and everyhring looks good except the alkalinity is on the low side (7 dkh). Nitrates 5ppm, nintrites 0, Ammonia 0, ph 8.2, salinity 1.025. I did have a temperature spike earlier this week when I forgot the fans off and the tabk went to 28°C for about 2 days...
 
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I find keeping zoas as really fussy coral. Had the same issue when my TL550 with the same light setup. Even with good and stable water parameters.
Since changing over to a bigger tank all my Zoas seem happy but, I did dip them before transferring. In my case it was either lighting, flow or some critters bugging them.
It could be that they are still acclimating?
 
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I used to have zoas that didnt open. A nice dip worked wonders. I used the Seachem reef dip
 
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No, but it does look like one of them is losing colour in the center of each polyp.
 
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Colour problems could be high phosphates but they have to be very high for Zoas to loose colour.
I see you don't mention your phosphate levels so maybe test them and then share them here.
The ones that are not opening could also be high phosphates but more likely either light or pests.
In my experience Zoas are finicky light wise, some can tolerate the light intensity same as SPS and others don't like the intensity of a fluorescent bulb, in fact I have had Zoas growing in the shade and amazingly happy.
The other problem could be pests, snails, worms or shrimps that are bugging them
For the ones that are not opening I would dip them and then maybe move them into less light and see from there
 
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Colour problems could be high phosphates but they have to be very high for Zoas to loose colour.
I see you don't mention your phosphate levels so maybe test them and then share them here.
The ones that are not opening could also be high phosphates but more likely either light or pests.
In my experience Zoas are finicky light wise, some can tolerate the light intensity same as SPS and others don't like the intensity of a fluorescent bulb, in fact I have had Zoas growing in the shade and amazingly happy.
The other problem could be pests, snails, worms or shrimps that are bugging them
For the ones that are not opening I would dip them and then maybe move them into less light and see from there
Just tested my phosphate levels and they are at the 0.25 ppm mark. Do you think thats too high?
 
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Just tested my phosphate levels and they are at the 0.25 ppm mark. Do you think thats too high?
That is pretty high.
You will battle to get nice colours with those levels.
You seem to have a bit of a imbalance in your filtration system because your nitrates are at a good range but your phosphates are very high
 
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That is pretty high.
You will battle to get nice colours with those levels.
You seem to have a bit of a imbalance in your filtration system because your nitrates are at a good range but your phosphates are very high
I just replaced my seachem phosgaurd. I haven't replaced it in a few months... I hope it helps!
 
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I just replaced my seachem phosgaurd. I haven't replaced it in a few months... I hope it helps!
Yeah the phosgaurd is good but won’t last months
You should replace it far more often
What I would also do is slowly try to bring them down
Don’t ‘shock’ the corals by brining it down to fast
 
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Yeah the phosgaurd is good but won’t last months
You should replace it far more often
What I would also do is slowly try to bring them down
Don’t ‘shock’ the corals by brining it down to fast
I just used the recommended ammount and popped it in a filter bag in the sump. It says I should test after 4 days again...
 
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I just used the recommended ammount and popped it in a filter bag in the sump. It says I should test after 4 days again...
So check after 4 days if it has dropped too much say more then like 0.05 then I would replace it again and just add a little less in
If you have been running so long at that high phosphate your corals have adjusted for that, if you drop it too rapidly then they wont like it much.
Also you should try and see what is causing the high phosphates in the first place, overfeeding, built up nutrients on the rocks, etc
 
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So check after 4 days if it has dropped too much say more then like 0.05 then I would replace it again and just add a little less in
If you have been running so long at that high phosphate your corals have adjusted for that, if you drop it too rapidly then they wont like it much.
Also you should try and see what is causing the high phosphates in the first place, overfeeding, built up nutrients on the rocks, etc
I put a new fish in the tank just over a week ago and the fish didnt make it. I was away for the weekend and only saw the half eaten dead fish on the Monday. Could that have caused an increase?
 
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Phosguard imo is useless stuff. If you have money to burn then use it. Phosguard gets saturated very fast and needs to be replaced often. Theres much better products on the market for a fraction of the cost.
 
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Phosguard imo is useless stuff. If you have money to burn then use it. Phosguard gets saturated very fast and needs to be replaced often. Theres much better products on the market for a fraction of the cost.
Such as? Im always interested when I can save money.
 
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I put a new fish in the tank just over a week ago and the fish didnt make it. I was away for the weekend and only saw the half eaten dead fish on the Monday. Could that have caused an increase?
It could be but it would most likely have caused an ammonia spike more then being the pure source of such high phosphates.
Honestly I think it is most likely something else
 
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Phosguard imo is useless stuff. If you have money to burn then use it. Phosguard gets saturated very fast and needs to be replaced often. Theres much better products on the market for a fraction of the cost.
I agree but I also think that most phosphate removers become a waste of money when using them as a primary source of phosphate remover.
Ideally they should be used to get the levels say from 0.07 to 0.05
I doubt they were ever designed to be used to take your levels from 0.25 down to 0.05 on a regular basis
 
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Such as? Im always interested when I can save money.
Ive messed around allott with phos removers in the past. GFO works wonders and one can just keep renewing the stuff. So you spend R400 once of to buy gfo and then thereafter just use caustic soda to renew it. Downside is you need a reactor for it to work properly.
Then i moved over to commercial liquid phos removers. Works wonders and much easier to use but became expensive very quickly. So i started to buy raw lanthanium chloride and just started to mix my own solutions. It works out dirt cheap and when phos levels are at desired levels the liquid last forever
 
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I agree but I also think that most phosphate removers become a waste of money when using them as a primary source of phosphate remover.
Ideally they should be used to get the levels say from 0.07 to 0.05
I doubt they were ever designed to be used to take your levels from 0.25 down to 0.05 on a regular basis
the idea is to bring levels down and to keep it there. so the media will always be used. Depending on what you prefer. Myself for instance dose Lanthanium chloride every two weeks or so
 

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