Can you have to much light

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by shaunn, 7 Nov 2011.

  1. shaunn

    shaunn

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    I have 900 X 600 X 600 Tank

    My lighting that i have is 3 Atannic + 2 White and 2 MH 150W both @ 10K-14K

    Currenty i am only running the 3 Atannic + 2 White

    Please adivce
     
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  3. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    depends on what corals you want to keep
     
  4. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Sounds just about right for your tank especially with the depth. You should be able to keep just about any coral in there.
     
  5. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    mmm tricky one..

    my perspective is yes you can have too much light too early, as by adding a abundance of light in the early stages of a developing reef you tend to grow nothing but diatoms steadily.. thus the recomendation to run lighting a little lean untill the system stabalises..

    but in the long term i think its more about photoperiod and having the correct spectrum of light rather than having an abundance of it.. i run a fairly short photoperiod for 2 reasons

    1) expence of electricity
    2) to curb algae growth..

    so its important to figure out what you want to achieve so that a more presice lighting recipe can be formulated for your specific needs..
     
    Last edited: 7 Nov 2011
  6. shaunn

    shaunn Thread Starter

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    well as u know my tank is very young so i will start with soft corals ect and move on to sps that were i what to go with it becuse my tank and my knowlage is far away from keeping sps for now
     
  7. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    with regards to too much light, i dont think so, this will be an issue when adding new corals if they come from a lower lit tank. so when buying corals always take note of the lights used and when adding your corals, add them to the lowest point for the first few days then slowly bring them high to their final place this will avoid light shock
     
  8. shaunn

    shaunn Thread Starter

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    and now the hight i have had a custum build canopy made it is aprox 200 mm from the water can i insert the mh's though the top will the distance from the water be ok ?
     
  9. rakabos

    rakabos

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    Why do many people run their actinics and whites in different or overlapping periods? Ive always run mine at the same time for 12hrs on and off
     
  10. Tridan

    Tridan

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    mostly to simulate dawn and dusk

    @rakabos
     
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  11. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    Too much light, OF COURSE! Your lighting, not too much though, but as mentioned acclimatize slowly.
    Google the August 2004 and March 2007 editions of advanced aquarist magazine. There are also some more recent articles in the how to enhance coral colouration which agree.

    Basically, coral respiration and photosynthesis of their zooxanthelllae will increase as lighting intensity increases, I.e. They grow faster with more light and their flourescent pigments "glow" more as light intensity in the right colour spectrum (most often in blueISH spectrum) increases.
    HOWEVER, this only happens up to a point, whereafter all three level out and then decrease as light intensity increases beyond a certain point.
    Doubt if your system is close to the saturation point for optimal growth and colour, so no need to stress, BUT worth keeping in mind.
    Also remember that corals don't grow in those high light areas on reefs because they neccescarily want to, or love it there, they are there because they have evolved the ability to survive their and their predators are not so prolific.
    Witnessed this first hand when diving in the tropics, as colonies 8 meters down, which had broken off from parents toering right at the surface, were more intense in colour.
     
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  12. seank

    seank

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    Thank you for this. Very interesting
     
  13. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    I agree on too much light. Light only comes third in the order of importance after water quality and feeding if I remember correctly.
     
  14. shaunn

    shaunn Thread Starter

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    ok then what should i have then

    2 mh 150 W and 4 T5?
     
  15. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    That's what I would use. The T5's choice would be 2 x blue and 2 x actinic. MH would be 14K to 20K, depending on make of globe.
     
  16. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    Water quality, flow, flow flow, feeding lighting
     
  17. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Yeah, I took flow as part of water quality, cause stagnant water goes bad :p :lol:
     
  18. Tremayn

    Tremayn

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    but thats a story for another day :p
     
  19. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    For the most part, answered by Tridan, but here are some considerations and an opurtunity to relieve my boredom:

    Just like nutrient desity and Flow, Lighting on a reef is not constant,. Furthermore, its actually quite erratic, think clouds passing, reef snow surging over and wind causing momentary increases in light intensity as chop (wavelets) functions as lenses focussing light and broken wavelets scatter light through air- water refraction (bubbles). But that can be simulated with random flow breaking the water surface, mulm / deritus disturbances and the dusk to dawn effect, although more random than just on off at set times would be preferrable.
    Then, similarly, we need to bear in mind that although light on a reef can get pretty intense around midday, it is short lived. What is more important than intensty per second, is total light received over a 12 hour day. If we were to achieve intensity close to the max intensity of a coral reef, but we maintain that intensity for an extended period, we can easily double the total amount light our inhabitants would have received in nature... Maybe not a good thing considering:
    As mentioned before, coral respiration / zoox photosynthesis slows down at certain intensities and even shuts down at too high intensities, which b.t.w. for some species occur at a fraction (as low as 10% if memory serves)of the max intensity on a natural reef.

    But wait, there is more:
    Before photosynthesis is shut down (its not like an instantaneous electric switch I suspect) there is an increase in photosynthesis, which when it happens too fast, causes formation of oxygen radicals / toxic superoxiden. within coral tissue. This can be easily noticed in LPS corals such as scolys, brains and cycloseris as air like bubbles in the tissue.
    Fortunately, certain trace elements assist corals in the breakdown of superoxides, but in our aquariums we seldom, if ever test for trace elements such as iron, manganese and iodide. If there is a shortage of trace elements to combat the superoxides within coral tissue, the host will inevitably expell the cause, i.e. Its zooxanthellae.

    And finally, well almost, there is infared light from metal halides, which can literally heat corals from the inside, with consequent and irreversable damage to the photosynthetic system.

    Before I forget, ultraviolet light has been shown to kill zooxanthellae, but how the coral deals with that by production of a sunscreen and effecient zoox "farming" is a story for another post....
     
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  20. irie ivan

    irie ivan MASA Contributor

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    NOOO! Lighting is too dependant on flow to leave it for another day..
     
  21. dallasg

    dallasg Moderator MASA Contributor

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    thanks irie, very informative posts
     
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