Boyu TL-550

Discussion in 'Nano Tanks' started by ZeroCool, 22 Jun 2009.

  1. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool

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    Morning everyone,

    Last weekend I bought a second hand Boyu TL-550 second hand.

    What a mission moving it, but it got moved and everything looks ok (i think.)

    firstly, where do i get a manual for the back end system ? I am very new at this and would like to get into it for a hobby.

    Secondly, the seller didn't really care for the system, and there are green algae on the live rock ... (how do one remove that).

    Thirdly, I have 3 fish, 1 clown and 2 zerbra's (hope i got the names correct, and the 2 kreepy's as i call them (crabs that clean and eat the algae).

    Fourly, I read about everyone talking about testing etc.

    I never tested any of the water and think i should. I will find a good petshop and take a sample for testing.

    Fithly, if i substitute some water and replace it with RO water .... must i mix salt with it or not ?

    Sorry for all the dummy questions, I got this for a really good price and I am very new.

    Hope to her from you soon.

    Regards
    Zero
     
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  3. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hiya ZeroCool! Great to have you on-board! It is such a shame that someone would let a nano tank like that go to neglect.... whatever their reasons were....

    BUT - good on you for wanting to learn, and that you joined MASA, in order to do so!

    I am not sure if I welcomed you to MASA yet, so, if I have, please excuse and ignore - but, here goes: A VERY WARM WELCOME to MASA! Great to have you on-board!

    To answer your questions:
    - the FIRST thing you must do, is get some decent test kits, RO water, and some synthetic salt (if you have these things, then great).
    The test-kits you require, in the beginning, are:
    = ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, salinity/SG (salt concentration - you get a hydrometer or a refractometer for this), alkalinity, temperature

    Now - here's the thing:
    - your ammonia reading MUST be 0 (zero), as should your nitrite levels be
    - nitrate levels would be ok'ish, below 30.... (with what ever brand of test kit you get).
    Good brands of test kits, are: Elos, Salifert, SeaChem, TropicMarine..
    You can contact one of the following LFS (these are sponsors of MASA):
    - Idol Marine (they are just off Allandale Road)
    - PetStop (Pretoria, not 100% sure of the suburb)
    - Dorry Pets (also in Pretoria, Valleria)
    There are other LFS's - but I don't know them unfortunately....

    You should definitely measure the salinity of the water, as this can kill the fish. The salinity MUST be between 1.023 and 1.026 - preferably not higher....

    Do 10 to 20% water changes on a weekly basis.... this should also help over a period of time, with the algae issues. Else - place the live rock in a dark container, just with a power-head (pump), for a period of at least 5 to 6 weeks.... the algae should die off permanently during this time.... This should be in a seperate container to the tank, in old tank water (when you have done the water changes - keep the water - don't chuck it)....

    Good luck...

    I don't want to over load you with information. Baby steps!

    Other than that - PLEASE BE PATIENT! The success of this hobby depends on how patient you are.....
    PLEASE READ AS MUCH AS YOU CAN....
    And PLEASE ask as MANY QUESTIONS as you can! There is no such thing as a STUPID question!

    Enjoy the journey into keeping marines! It is an addictive life-changing hobby!
     
  4. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Fist off, I am not familiar with the Boyu design so can not help with the workings at the back.

    You have green algae, this is not a good sign i am afraid, but with a lot of reading on MASA and aking many questions on the forum, you will come right !!!

    I think you need to prioritize a few things in your system........

    • we need pics to really assess what needs to be done.
    • We urgently need your water tested ...... firstly we need an accurate SG... this indicates the salt content of the system..... i suspect this may be out of kilter
    • what temperature are you running the system on?
    • I remember what it was like when i first got my tank, we really tend ot overfeed in the beginning...... if fed the right stuff, then fish can be kept extremely healthy only being fed every second day..... cut back on your feeding if significant amounts of food is dropping to the substrate.
    • tell us about the tank.... what lighting does it have if you dont know take some pics and post them)... what filtration does it have? What pumps does if have?
    • if you had to guess how much live rock is in the tank?
    • what substrate are you using?
    • is there a sump of any description ?
    Your question regaring water...... if we loose water through evaporation, we do not loose salt, this results in the SG of the water increasing (as the salt becomes more concentrated) so for this water loss we add only RO water. however when we remove water through a water change etc, then we must add pre mixed salt water (dont add salt to the tank directly) ... the salt water should be mixed at least 24 hrs before and brought to the same temp before you dd it to the system.


    hope that helps for now !
     
  5. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    you posted while i ws typing Jacques :) See we came up with very similar points .... so plenty of things for you to work on zerocool :thumbup:
     
  6. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Ok, so the first step would be, a test kit ... OK, and then RO water. (I got salt to mixed with, from the previous owner)
    I got a hydrometer/refractormeter with the system, it is that thing that drifts around, showing the salt level (hope i am correct there).
    If i do a water change, how must i warm up the water to the correc temp ? Should I have an extra tank for water changes ?
    I will get pics asap ! :)
    Secondly, what does SG mean ?
    currently, the system's temp is between 24 and 25.
    more about the system, all i know, it is a buyo tl-550.
    about live stock, i have 2 zebra's in, and 1 clown fish, with 2 hermits (hope i got that right). and 2 very large live rocks.
     
  7. wiesnerm

    wiesnerm

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    I have the following setup in my tank standing in front of the tank from right to left:
    1. Skimmer
    2. Filter sponge (I know this is probably not the best thing to have in the "sump", but thus far it has been working for me.
    3. Heater (I had the heater in the 4th chamber, but the water was not heated properly because of the flow setup in the last chamber)
    4. Return pump

    I also ensure that the water level in the sump is as such that there is a bit of an overflow from the 2nd to the 3rd chamber. This helped me with tehe quality of the water.
     
  8. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Good morning, thanks for the detailed reply.

    Ok, the system how it current stands or is, is:

    from right to left:

    1) the skimmer
    2) the heater (i have currently a temp of 24 degrees). I also have some bio balls in there? that is perfect right ?
    3) The charcoal and white small balls (stuff), with some more bio balls in there
    4) the return flow.

    I took some pics last night of the system ...

    any comments would help.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Ok, that is the story so far ... got the tank on friday ...

    the salt levels are 100%, the temp is 24 degrees. I am buying a testing kit asap, and i will test my water at the nearest marine pet shop asap.

    hope to hear from anyone soon ... regards
     
  9. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hi ZeroCool. Please remove all Bio balls from the system, this eventually builds up detritus and leads to nitrate problems.
    Your nutrients appear to be high, I would suggest running some Phosphate remover to help rid away the algae you have on the back and on the rocks.
    Also remove the airstone that you have there and instal a powerhead to increase circulation :)
     
  10. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Hi Mekaeel, thanks for the info.

    Ok, i will tonight first thing remove all the bio balls. I would assume a powerhead can be bought from any marine pet shop, is that right ?And I also assume I can get phosphate at any pet shop (marine one ofcourse).

    Zero ...
     
  11. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hi ZeroCool, yes you can a powerhead from any shop, but I would suddest getting a Seio, Tunze or even a Tunze (if finances allow). These pumps create a wide dispersed flow.
    A good brand of Po4 remover wil be Rowaphos.
    Check up with Lanzo, I think he is close to you and is a sponsor on the site.
     
  12. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the great reply again. First of all, thanks to everyone that is helping me. I really hope i make this one great success !

    Secondly, I live in edenvale and Lanzo is in pta, but we are chatting from the word start, and thanks to him aswell.

    There opened a great new petshop accross the greenstone mall who also now has marine fish. I will query them this afternoon and hope they can help.

    If we are talking powerheads, how much in rands more or less, i just want to budget correctly.

    Fourthly, if i am correct and i understand correct, you are saying i must get Rowaphos for the Phosphate problem ? I assume it will also have a test kit to test that right ?
     
  13. Mekaeel

    Mekaeel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hi ZeroCool
    Have a look here Dorry Pets - Home , he also ships :)
    Yes Rowaphos is a phosphate remover. Yes a test kit for the Phosphates is an essential :)
     
  14. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Hey Zero,

    you getting the idea mate, powerhead costs ...... sun sun would be about R120 for that size tank, Seio which is much better around R350 i guess ! Not sure about Tunze.

    there are a number of phos remover products .... just ask your petshop, but ja Rowaphos is a great product.

    you asked what SG is.... it is a measure of density ... SG = Specific Gravity and is a measure of the salt content in your system

    when you moved the tank, was there a lot of "muck" stirred up when you moved the roack and substrate??
     
  15. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Hi Neil, thanks for all the info :)

    Your question about the muck, yes, there was acutally ... loads and loads. When we reconfiguted it at my place, it all went to the back, and some sank.

    I don't understand stand or know what is roack or subtrate, please inform me.
     
  16. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    there is the problem IMO....

    the muck in the tank is feeding the algae ......

    I would suggest the following ...............

    get a siphoning pipe, and siphon your substrate ..... in fact i personally would remove all the substrate (crushed coral at the bottom of the tank)..... run the siphoned water through several cloth fliters (i have used old ****s in the past ... blue bulls shirts for example) this will get out a remarkable amount of rubbish, then put the water back into the tank..... you could of course replace the water with new salt water which would help even more...... just dont remove and replace more than about 30 to 40% of the volume too often.... it may shock the fish .....

    replace the crushed coral with aragonite or reggies play sand just wash it properly ... like 20 times
     
  17. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Hi Neil, what do you mean, there is the problem IMO ... ?

    Ok, so to solve the algae, we need to sort out the muck as well !

    Lol, please don't laugh, I read your post 3 times and can't figure out what to do stil.

    1) What is a siphoning pipe first of all ?
    2) What do you mean by siphon your substrate ?
    3) What do you mean by, remove the crushed coral ?), are we know talking at the back of the tank, or actually in the tank ?
    4) So it would be ideal to replace 30% of the water ?
    5) Aragonite, what is this, and where do i get it, also at pet shops ?

    thanks for all the help so far again, i need it !
     
  18. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Zero, have a look at my answers above !:thumbup:
     
  19. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Hi Neil ...

    I actually don't have any muck in the tank, only algae. (but i understand what you are saying, it goes hand in hand.)

    If you are saying vacuum the substrate, does it mean, go into the sand and suck up any thing that comes up (rubbish in other words).

    I know we have one of those pipes somewhere at home, this is our first marine tank.
    But we have tropical ones.

    I can't really see crushed coral al all, it is actually just sand with the 2 live rocks, and 2 pieces of coral. But will investigate tonight again.

    I will visit the nearest pet shop this afternoon, and ask their advice as well, and showing all your replies to me.

    :)

    I am really now in the deep end, and hope i make it. It looks so nice when a tanks operates on its own. A pitty the previous owner really didn't care about it.

    hope i get some light in this dark picture with everyones help !
     
  20. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    I just thought about your reply ... are you saying, i must remove all the gravel at the bottom and replace that with aragonite / reggies play sand ?
     
  21. ZeroCool

    ZeroCool Thread Starter

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    Another thing ...

    I know now about water changes, and they are very needed.

    Now, my question is, do i need to configure a second tank with RO water and salt to be running, and as i need it, use it to replace a % per week ?

    Currently, I don't have any thing ... Is that very important to have or not ?

    Comments please
     
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