Blackout to combat cyano?

Discussion in 'Nuisance Algae' started by mariusmeyer, 16 Jan 2011.

  1. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer

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    I have quite a lot of cyano at the moment. It is all over the rocks etc and is starting to grow on the corals as well. I have read that a 3 day blackout can be used to get rid of it since the bacteria does not get any light to photosynthesize. Would the corals be ok with this? I have mainly mushrooms, zoas, a picushion, frogspawn, ancora coral, plate and doughnut coral. Only have 1 SPS in there, its a green slimer.

    I dont want to go the chemical route so i want to start with this first. Will skim wet during this period to get rid of the bacteria as they die. I will be doing a 25% water change before and then after as well.

    What do you guys think? Could this work and will the corals be ok? I want to do a total blackout with black sheeting.
     
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  3. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    I just finished a 3 day blackout. My corals are all fine and the cyano definitely died down a lot. What I did was dose MB7 every night for a week before, during and after the blackout. I can't say it is a permanent solution as the cyano is starting up again, after 24 hours of the light being on again. Just think about it this way, when you buy a coral from a pet shop it has been in a 3 day blackout during transport and everything so I'm sure most corals will be fine with this.
     
  4. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    Thanks Manic. I dont need it as a permanent solution as I will do more regular changes and setup some proper reactors to get rid of the DOC.
     
  5. Tony

    Tony

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    Stop dosing any probiotics or carbon sources as this only feeds the cyano. Agitate the waters surface to oxygenate the water more and it will help a lot and also direct powerheads in the cyanobacterias general area
     
  6. Tony

    Tony

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    Also check the temperature of your tank as higher temperatures equals lower oxygen in the water which aggravates cyano
     
  7. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    Thanks Tony. Temperature never goes higher than 26.5. Not dosing any probiotics or carbon sources at all. Onlt thing going into the tank is flake food, alk and calcium additives. The cyano even grows in the high flow areas. I upped the flow and it did not do anything. I added some activated carbon to get rid of DOC but so far not much luck.
     
  8. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    cayno and good water flow do not go together. What is your flow?
     
  9. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    Total turnover of 40 times distributed through the tank. Running 2 X 5000LPH sunsuns and 2 5800LPH seios in a 5ft tank.
     
  10. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    I still get cyano and my total turnover is around 100x. This stuff has become resilient.
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Cayno from Mars?
    I found them to go for the lowest flow areas in your tank, or sump.
    So if you will get them, you will, no stopping them. And they do very well, nice reddish slime covering all over whatever. With their tell-tale bubbles. Like in my refugium. There I just let is be. As long as the cheato ball is not affected.
     
    Last edited: 16 Jan 2011
  12. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Stupid question/statement from me.
    Blackout? will that remove the food source for the cayno?

    Sure, after 3 days, the cayno is gone, but... 3 days later, all back with a vengeance.

    You need to eliminate the food source.
     
  13. Dane

    Dane

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    I would be interested in seeing if you can actually completely remove cyano from a system.. although I doubt it. Even if they are bacteria (very short lifespans) surely some would manage to get through the blackout... Keep us posted if you follow this route - and remember to make it a TOTAL blackout.
     
  14. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    Since the cyano is photosynthetic, by removing the light source they will die (or at least they should). I used a plastic drop sheet to cover the tank. Its pretty dark in there. The poor fish think its sleeping time for a long time. I only switch the actinics on for 10 mins to feed the fish.

    Will update the thread after the 3 days.
     
  15. HenkHugo

    HenkHugo

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    I simply started to dose SpecialBlend and let it do it's job.... no more cyano on the sand...
     
  16. Monti

    Monti

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    I had a total blackout of 4 days last year (halide hulb went and couldnt get a backup). To be honest, it ended up making my cyano worse (AND I had 110x flow).

    If I was you, I would phos treat like mad, skim wet, and add some good quality bac source (Prodibio, Fauna Marin, Microbe-Lift), and cut down feeding. Also just a bit of patience and it will eventually go.
     
    Last edited: 17 Jan 2011
  17. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    That is not what I wanted to hear. Wherever I read they said that there was no relation between phosphate levels and cyano. I was running phosphate remover and it just kep getting worse so I replaced the phosphate remover with carbon for now. The GHA vanished though with the phosphate remover. I dont think patience will do the trick as it is starting to grow on the corals. In particular the sea fan. Will check what it does in 3 days, will do a 25% waterchange today and siphon out as much as I can.
     
  18. Junz

    Junz

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    increasing your redox will help
     
  19. Lycan

    Lycan

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    I removed Cyano from my system over about a one week period...
    Black out with tarp over tank and syphoned everynight, waved my hand over the cyano (and rubed it of rock were needed)and sucked it right out, with this I also did about a 5-10% water change per day (300lt tank)
    It is a lot of PT but it worked :)
    Of cousre its easy here as I get NSW for free
     
  20. Ari

    Ari

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    Just adding on to the blackout system. Ive been leaving my lights off about 2 days and a lot has disappeared and moved to my sump. Will it be fine to let the crap thrive in my sump as it will suck up most of the nitrates and phosphates leaving the top clean right? And will it help to mabye add phosphate E or some remover because ive been doing water changes for long and my flow is pretty strong.
     
  21. mariusmeyer

    mariusmeyer Thread Starter

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    You dont want cyano anywhere in your system. It is impossible to stop the bacteria from spreading to the main tank.
     
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