Best electrical options?

Discussion in 'Test Kits, Controllers, Reactors and Dosers' started by RiaanP, 22 Jul 2009.

  1. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I'm designing a cube tank. And the sump area on a cube is not the easiest to put everything in. My question is, what electrical setup will be the best, including timers? Easiest? Most Compact? Expandable? Adjustable? whatever....

    1. As most stuff comes with a two point plug, a bank of two point sockets is a good option, cons you have to grab and pull the plug out to switch it off. And normally the cable is to short anyway and you have to cut and make it longer.
    2. Bunch of wall Plugs. Big and bulky. but with switch, so no need to pull the plug out. But at about R70 per plug, . It is not that cheap.
    3. Multiplugs. hmmm, messy, timers normally do not fit next to each other.
    4. DB Box with contact point connector blocks. Those plastic ones at Builders for around R700. Looks neat, with "tripswitches" so you can switch a line completely of. Have to cut all plug ends of. Not easy to add or change anything.
    5. Combination of the above.
    Starting list of things to plug in.
    1. Skimmer
    2. Return pump * 2
    3. Heaters * 2
    4. Sump Light on timer
    5. Metal Halide on timer
    6. T5 24w * 2 on timer (maybe split onto 2 timers)
    7. Moonlight on timer
    8. Closed loop pump * 2
    So this is at least 12 plugs. Add 3 for extra, So I need 15 points.

    Any suggestions, options, advice please.
     
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  3. Sentari

    Sentari

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    Ive been thinking about the same thing for my tank.

    Personally Plugs arent R70 each. They not that expensive.

    But i'm tagging along cause i'm also interested in a db board. Also does anyone know if you get timers for a db board? simple small one's
     
  4. brettb2020

    brettb2020

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    hey guys. Im on my mobile at the moment so cant post links. But go onto bid or buy and search for 15way din db board. Its got a din rail in it so stuff like timers, breakers, and switches can slot on. Major tech has din mountable timer. Cant remember code. Il give more info when im home.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  5. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Riaan - I used to have the "VERY MESSY" (and dangerous) option if a huge amount of multiplugs. On and around my tank, I have about 28 electrical devices that I had to cater for.

    I "converted" (well - nearly complete) all my "multiplugs" to ONE home DB-board. I got one here in Cape Town, at Brights Electrical/Hardware, for R560 (a complete "plastic" DB board with an earth leakage, and 5 circuit breakers with different amparages - I just bought one extra circuit breaker, that I can have 6).

    I unfortunately, had to combine the 28 electrical wiring connections, to fit into the 6 circuit breakers. Because I have 1 x 32 Amp, 2 x 20 amp, and 3 x 10 amp circuit breakers, I was able to do exactly this - A LOT LESS MESSY than my multitude of multiplugs!

    I still have to permanently "mount" my db-board - but, it is a LOT safer, and a LOT easier to work on/with now.

    The lights, I left on a seperate 3-prong multi-plug, because of the timers. There's no way that I would have been able to "fit" something else - so - I have the multiplug going onto one of the circuit breakers as well.....

    So - I have option 5 - a combination of DB-board and multiplugs.... (where the multiplugs are actually connected to the DB-board, and NOT directly to the wall socket).

    I have a very thick electrical twin-flex (3-way) cable that is supplying the electrical current to the DB board. THIS, I just connect with one 3-prong 15-AMP plug to a normal wall socket.

    I have had this now for the past 3 months - and have not had any issues.
     
  6. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    You could do something like this.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Nemos Janitor

    Nemos Janitor

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    Ro this.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    to save cutting the plugs off the ends you could use a female 2 pin plug where your male 2 pin plugs can connect to. Wire the female side up to your switches. male side go's to your device.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Johan van Aardt

    Johan van Aardt I love marines [R.I.P.]

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    Hager elictrical make a db board that is totally waterproof and seals with rubbers im looking into a price at the moment for one that has space for about ten switches will let you know, the timers do take up two spaces(well the ones that keep their times when power goes out.) i hope this helps. What i figured is go to a yacht shop they can usually suggest the best things and thats were the hager db unit idee came from.
     
  10. DeanT

    DeanT Dean

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    I Would go BD and try and connect each device to it's own circuit breaker or switch. this will allow you to have control over the specific item , if you need to . with timers , i am sure you could use the digital ones that are fitted to pool pumps that have schedules programmed for on off periods. hope this helps
     
  11. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    Ok to answer/comment some stuff

    Sentari, Talking about electrical socket wall mounted box. Like normal used in house. But the wall mounted units, not in-wall. Box, plug and front cover works out to about R70. Plus connector to next box. Building a multiplug from these boxes. Problem, it is metal and will eventually rust.

    Brett, I did see the Mayor Tech DIN timers. but the ones I saw take two slots, handle only one line and where about R150. With 4 timers my DB box will be full. Also normal socket timers are about R100 (electronic ones). But I like the Mayor Tech switches and box.

    With that going with Jacques idea for timers on a multiplug, outside the DB. Thats an option.

    Nemos Janitor, that is neat work. But must still pull the plug to switch it of. OK, not a mayor problem. But I like your neatness

    Dohn, that is clever. Mights solve some issues. Also makes removing a pump to clean it easier. Better that a connector block. Will keep it in mind.
     
  12. DeanT

    DeanT Dean

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    here is a picture from another thread on the forum , very tidy and inspiring
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    Heres mine
    [​IMG]
     
    SchyffS likes this.
  14. Sentari

    Sentari

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    Wow neat work Dohn!
     
  15. H0nda42

    H0nda42

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    Tagging along as I would like to get some ideas to do the same.
    Thanks
     
  16. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    Dohn - neat work.

    Questions. Is it a plastic box?
    The stuff (looks like relays and timer) on door bottom, they not connected in this photo to anything?
    Do you have a pic of the door front?

    Do your appliances wire up directly to the box, or do you have a connector block between the box and for example heater/pump. To help when you need to clean / repair / replace something. (I do not want to switch full box of if I want to remove a heater).
     
  17. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    lol. Now im ashamed.
    Yes Riaan its not wired in at the moment.
    Its a metal box, The small picture above it is my door front.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I am using a connector block, one for lives and one for neutrals. from here im running 3 core power cable to a wall mount socket and multiplugs, or direct to some lights. All these wires, sockets etc are contained in 10 x 10 trunking.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. RiaanP

    RiaanP Thread Starter Moderator

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    Dohn
    Is this correct
    [​IMG]
     
  19. DeanT

    DeanT Dean

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    I knew it was somewhere ,, Dohn amazing job , would you share schematics and details with us ???
     
  20. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    Hi Riaan
    yip thats correct. Good eye.

    DeanT, thank you, thank you very much...
    I dont really know how to draw schematics, but i can certainly try.

    Have a look at Tommo's tank.
    Also ask lIghty if he wouldnt mind showing you something for another idea.
     
  21. Dohn

    Dohn MASA Contributor

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    [​IMG]
    Timer 1 drives my T8 attnics
    Timer 2 drives relay 1 which then splits the 24 hour mains between my MH and Moonlights
    Timer 3 drives relay 2 which then splits the 24 hour mains between my ATS lights in the top tank and the ATS i will build in the bottom tank.

    On the door i have just recently installed a push button to stop all the pumps from working for a duration set on the timer. They then automatically come on after timeout.

    The first socket is an AC to DC converter to drive my float switches and relays, i still havent built that yet.

    I managed to get 27 connection connector blocks in the bottom, i also have 27 buttons+ kill button.
    The buttons are rocker switches, the top position is for timed devices, eg lights and bottom position is for override. middle position is off.

    in the tank areas i have 10 x 10 trunking with all the cables and plugs mounted on the inside, this was to prevent salt creep etc and make it look neater. equipment just plugs into the socket. I did it this way so that if something broke i might still have guarantee. also makes removing devices easier
     
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