Basic sump layout

Discussion in 'New Members' started by Apollo, 27 Sep 2008.

  1. Apollo

    Apollo

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    Greetings to all ,

    Thanks for all the help and info so far.

    OK. So now I have started looking at my sump design and the general layout thereof.

    This is what I have come up with in terms of my sump design. The sump is approx 60 liters and I will most likely use a Reeftek skimmer . I have decided to use filter wool for the first compartment to aid the mechanical filtering , before passing thorugh the skimmer and then on to the DSB. Lastly, I have decided to have a compartment with activated carbon/charcoal before finally returning the water to the display tank.

    Any comments , suggestions or advise on the sump design would be appreciated

    (I had to attach the pic as a MS Word file, since it is a drawn image. Hope you can read it)
     

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  3. moz

    moz

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    First question, whats the intake pump for, the skimmer? and what is above the intake pump filter floss? If it is remember to clean/change it regularly.

    Can't tell from the sketch, but how are you going to put the carbon in, remember it has to be changed regularly, so a filter bag/stocking helps. The basic layout is fine as the order is correct mechanical (skimmer), biological (DSB) the Chemical (Carbon)
     
  4. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Apollo - As Moz said - you do not require an "intake pump". The water should be gravity fed from your tank. Even if you don't have your tank drilled - you should then have a siphon overflow that "hangs-on" to your tank.... Have a look at Tom's tank in the member's setups. He posted an AWESOME overflow idea, which he created WITHOUT drilling his Jebo tank...

    BUT - if you tank is going to be drilled, you DEFINITELY do not require a pump to get the water from the tank to the sump......
     
  5. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    BTW: Awesome sump design man!
     
  6. Apollo

    Apollo Thread Starter

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    Moz - The intake pump was originally intended to pump water from the main tank to the sump. I had not envisaged drilling the main tank, so I would need some way to "suck" water from the tank. Jaquesb is correct however : Using a siphon from the main tank will do the job just fine.
    The filter floss I intend to change on a 3-4 daily basis. The carbon will be contained in pouches or stocking etc.
     
  7. Reef Inmate

    Reef Inmate

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    Howzit Apollo. You should have some type of overflow in you tank to drain the water to the sump. Then I would do the layout something like this.

    [​IMG]

    You can either build your own overflow into your tank or buy one. If you don't want to drill you could use something like this which works ona siphon and clips on the side of your tank:


    [​IMG]


    This sump design can be expanded as you grow and your aquarium develops:


    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps
     
  8. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Hi Apollo, I would suggest making your DSB 150mm(min 6 inches) rather than 120mm. On the carbon issue, The guys will let you in on that more, but I know that you get a new product called Chem-elite or something like that, it also removes nitrates and phosphates apparently and only needs to be changed 4-6 monthly I think. Some of the sponsors stocks it ;)
     
  9. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Nice design pics Leigh ;)
     
  10. Apollo

    Apollo Thread Starter

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    Leigh, Tobes - Thanks for the info. Quick question : Is the UV sterilizer a neccessity at this point , or can it be added later? Also , I have seen some members using a chiller as part of their setup. Forgive my ignorance... but what would be the purpose of the chiller in a place like JHB ?
     
  11. Reef Inmate

    Reef Inmate

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    I personally don't use UV sterilizers but some folks like to so the option is there. Chillers are to keep the temperature from going to high. Depending on your system and lighting it could get to high during the summer months in Jhb.
     
  12. Tobes

    Tobes Retired Moderator

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    Just remember that your tank must run between 24-28 deg and should the outside temp be higher than that, your tank temp will climb if you don't have any method of cooling like a chiller. Also your lights is a big factor, metal halides get extremely hot, especially in an enclosed area. Your pumps can also add a bit of heat ;)
    You don't have to get a chiller, some guys use fans for evaporation and cooling :)
     
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