Baaienaar's bad luck with his 2nd tank

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by jacquesb, 11 Aug 2009.

  1. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Baaienaar - I have moved your post to it's own thread.

    Now you can tell us all about this. Thanks.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    And then it cracked as well!!!!!!!

    Yes, believe it or not. I got a frantic phonecall from my son telling me the bottom had cracked ( all I can think of is that there must have been a flaw or some stress in the glass- and yes it had a floating bottom and everything) and eventually all the weight of the water and LR had resulted in the latter ending up on the floor underneath the tank with my sand spread out across the floor of my lapa. Fortunately it was too soon to start stocking yet (blessing in disguise- my stock was still at Pet and Outdoors {thanks Oom Nick ens Nico for your patience})

    So there was nothing else to do but sweep up the sand and start all over. I had a new floating bottom inserted as well as extra bracing for the base of my as a precaution. I moved my 300 liter three chamber sump outside to a little nook I had no other use for, and built up front and rear walls and fitted a removable roof.

    The total volume of my system, incl. the sump, is just on 2000 liters. It has an elongated octagonal shape- two 2m long sides and one short side of 650 mm and at the other end a point created by two 650 mm panels meeting one another at about a 15 degree angle. My weir sits spreadeagle across this point where they meet to re-inforce it.

    The tank is mounted in a 2 m wide x 1 m high hole I have cut into the wall separating the familyroom from my lapa, offering viewing from the family room and the lapa. Because of this I have opted for a central reef stacked up and around the weir tapering down at roughly 45 degrees to sandlevel in the centre/middle of the tank. The other half of the tank is stacked to create a 300 mm high irregular swimaround submerged little island. What this does is give me ample reef space for corals as well as creating a huge swimspace for the fish- an idea I got from Crispin.

    Underneath the reef at the wide weir-end I have placed two 2500 l/h Seio's to flush detritus out from under the reef continuously. These are the only two in-tank pumps. The return pump in my sump is a 2500 l/h Mianyang, and flow is suplemented by a 12000 l/h Speck pump, a 6500 liter Magnet pump (both external), a 6550 l/h Hailea powerhead, and a 2500 l/h pump all feeding into an overhead ringmain which creates flow by injecting water into the tank through twelve offset 12 mm nozzles injecting water into the tank at 45 degrees.

    I am currently manipulating these pumps manually to experiment, but will eventually fit solenoid valves on timers to hopefully mimick churning currents and eddies. I also still have my old cracked tank which I am thinking of repairing and utilizing (amongst other things) as a reservoir to create a waterdump to cause wave-like surges. It will also house a refugium and mangrove, a turf scrubber, and an ICU cum quarantine area in a seperate compartment. All this will be managed by a Profilux management system.

    My lighting consists of an 1,8 m pendant housing 3 x 250 watt Metal halides, 4 x fluorescents (2 actinics) and 3 x moonlights on a timer. I have also just mounted 2 x 400 watt Metal halides above the wide weir-side of the tank for when I eventually start stocking SPS's. I have ordered 14000 Kelvin globes for these to ensure I have the correct light quality. Again, the Profilux will be used to create near natural dawn-dusk effects and transisions, lightning and lunar effects if possible.

    My sump holds approximately 300 liters in 3 compartments (first = receptacle, middle = DSB and third = return). I have some LR in each compartment and because it is outdoors I have 2 x 300 watt heaters, 1 each in the first and last chamber, to suplement the 2 x 200 watt heaters in my tank and the 1 x 200 watt heater in the RO drum for the auto top-up. The skimmer is a Reef Octopus rated for 3000 liters per hour. I am running a phosphate reactor with carbon and UV, and a Hailea HC- 300 chiller and my calsium is maintained by manually adding 1 teaspoon of settled-out Kalkwasser in a liter of RO to the sump every week until such time as I can add a Kalkstirrer.

    Thats's it for now. Photos and more to follow.
     
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  3. crispin

    crispin

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    three things struck me with this story. To be honest it sounds too coincidental to be bad luck that two tanks pop in the same location, in a short period of time. Are you 1000% certain that the hole cut through the wall is level and NOT placing undue stressed on the base of the tank? thats incredibly important, remeber you arte putting close to 2500kg onto that base! Please make sure of that :)

    a central reef is good fun, but scaping it can be a challange to get the desired results. I had a deliberate "front"and "back" sides to the reef, with corals and nennie on the front, but a wide swimming area for fish on the back. Thus if i was on my couch and looking at the back view, the fish often followed me through the reef and added color there too. Of course having corals on both sides is best:) Also as you have nice length a centrally bridge section might work well and lift the reef high in the water for sections that you can try your hand at sps to start with :)


    also having some LR in each chamber is a good idea for increased biological filreation, but can work in your disadvantage in that detritus can build up if the water flow through the sump is not fast enough. I would personally collect it all into one chamber and have a small power head in there for this reason, or else have it in the DT and keep the sump more open :)

    I like the fact you have so many heaters, that sounds like good planning :)
     
  4. jacquesb

    jacquesb Thread Starter Retired Moderator

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    My personal opinion about this, Baaienaar, is - personally, I think that your stand, or even perhaps floor, might be "moving".... causing the tank's glass to break.
     
  5. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Just a question, is the tank inside the house or outside?
    Actually my question is, does the stand stand in the house or outside? Is the legs on the same base. Not some legs in the house or on the wall and other legs on Lapa floor.

    Reason: Normally Lapa's is added to houses later. And the Lapa floor is independant on the house floor and foundations. And it will never join, wet cement never joins onto dry cement. Two cement pieces will always be able to move seperatly.

    Maybe break out the floor directly under tank and redo a thicker stronger re-inforced one piece floor for under the tank.
     
    Reef Maniac likes this.
  6. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Unlucky. Hope you find the problem. I would have packed it in after the 2nd blow out
     
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