ATU got stuck - ideas on commercial units pls.

Discussion in 'General Discussions and Advice' started by neo, 4 Aug 2010.

  1. neo

    neo

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    Morning,
    :angry:
    Got up this morning to a strange sound from the tank's side of the house, went down and realised the ATU got stuck somewhere during the night and dumped 25L of RO in my tank, with the ATU pump becomming an air pump.
    It is again the relay that broke, 2 months ago the relay stopped working in the off position (normally open), this time in the on position.
    I'm a bit gat-vol for this DIY ATU idea cause it's giving me shit

    Any suggestions on commercial ATU ?
     
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  3. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Sorry to hear.

    Mmmm.... sounds like you have the incorrect relay rating or something, as most relays should last years!

    Can you please post pics of the relay, specs on the pump and power supply system. I'll have a look and advise, once right you WON'T have any more problems!
     
  4. Suhayl

    Suhayl

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    Why Diy it, they cost like R80. I got mine Electro Mining Supply, still working for alomost 5 years. Why complicate things, do things simple.
     
  5. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Not with you here bud? what cost R80, the relay or complete unit?
     
  6. neo

    neo Thread Starter

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    Hmmm,
    here's a pic of what i use,
    [​IMG]
    I have a 12V 500ma supply with the float switch switching the 12V on/off to the coil side of the relay.
    I have a 220V pump, 1200l/h, I think about 10Watt on the contact side of the relay.
    Appreciate the help
     
  7. Suhayl

    Suhayl

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    A float switch cost R80. All you have to is connect to a pump, when the level water drops the pump will switch on and top up. Why have a relay?
     
  8. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Ok, to the relay should be more than ample, it rated for 5A 220V AC.....should be fine....Mmmmmm

    Certain its not the float switch sticking? Have you confirmed with a meter that the COM and NO contacts are still closed with power (12V side) removed?
     
  9. Manic

    Manic Moderator

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    My float switch died last night as well. Also got stuck on the on position. Luckily I didn't have a lot of water in my top up chamber.
     
  10. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Just to confirm, you using a normal small submerable pump?

    I would rather try get a slightly better quality relay, or perhaps place a small MOV across the 220V side.... the contacts could be arcing and burning?
     
  11. neo

    neo Thread Starter

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    The float I use can only handle minute amounts of amps, something like 100ma if I'm not mistaking, thats why i use the relay route.

    Was in a hurry this morning to get the SG right and myself out of the hous for a meeting, will do proper testing tonight, did a quick sound check this morning and the float was making the necessary click-click sounds when you move it up down, float is fairly new as well.
    Thx.
     
  12. neo

    neo Thread Starter

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    yes it is a normal submersable pump,
    MOV ??
    how does one know good from bad relays ?
     
  13. lIghty

    lIghty

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    Eish, that could've been a serious problem :whistling:

    Why not run 2 switch in series, one higher (out the water - so it stays clean) that the other, so the one does the switching, but if it stick and the water level increase too high it the second one kick it out,
     
  14. AfricaOffroad

    AfricaOffroad

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    I know of a second hand Aqua Medic "aquaniveau" control unit selling for R400.
    You just plug one or 2 level switches into it and a 220V pump or solenoid valve into it to get it to work.

    Let me know
     
  15. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    I got a unit from Dorry some time ago.
    A lot more expensive. But it got an build in fail safe. It can only pump RO for 1,2 or 3 minutes, depending on your settings. Then it stops and sounds an alarm.
     
  16. Singularity

    Singularity Hmmm amper!

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    +1, i use the same unit, and it is pretty fail safe, sells for +/-R1000 SAGA ATO unit
     
  17. lIghty

    lIghty

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    MOV = Metal oxide Varistor = acts as a voltage clamp and stops the arcing on the contact points.

    Generally by the price, but I use alot of them and only pay R15-R20, and never had any problems yet, even with both 400W Mh on one circuit.
     
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