Aquarium Glass arrangement types

Discussion in 'Anything DIY Related' started by sujaydp, 13 Jun 2012.

  1. sujaydp

    sujaydp

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    Hi,

    I've noticed the glass panes arranged in different manner in almost all the aquariums.
    The following are the five types of set-ups I have seen.

    Which one is the best ? (scientifically taking the design and water pressure on the joints into consideration)
    Which is the most common one..? (assembled by most commercial manufacturers)
    Which one is the easiest to make with less fuss..?

    Sujay

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  3. Wiley

    Wiley

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    Type A
     
  4. FransSny

    FransSny

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    The strongest build is one where your sides as well as front and back panes are "one the ground" and not resting on top of the bottom glass.

    So taking into account short side of bottom glass , the side panes would be the same width. Front and back panes are then adjusted length wise to take into account glass thickness of side panes used.

    Hope this makes sense
     
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  5. sujaydp

    sujaydp Thread Starter

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    Thanks for the replies,

    I've seen type B mostly used. and type C for small sizes.. has anyone bulit Type A tanks..?
     
  6. Fanlie

    Fanlie

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    Type A, im sure strong enough
     
  7. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Commercial tanks are built that way, type A
     
  8. Shaun88

    Shaun88

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    @FransSny,

    If you had to build a tank, would you go with Type A or B? Also, would one have to increase the thickness of the bottom panel if your sides are say 10mm?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
  9. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    Type A , with sides on top of bottom panel is used in commercial tanks, Daro for example. There is nothing wrong with that as the tanks are "small". From 10L to 250L

    BIG tanks, 700L and up, the type B is better or more preferred method. The bottom pane then do not need to carry the weight of the side panels. Which with 10mm glass can become very heavy. Less stress on the bottom pane right on the edges.

    Their is another variation on B, on big tanks, where the bottom pane is not one single pane. But rather sections or blocks. Normally double layer and the blocks are laid so that the joints do not overlap. This allows a lot more movement on the bottom. The trick here is to spread the silicone that is between the 2 layers in such a way that the silicone in the middle can get dry. So long S loops is better. No need to have silicone completely smeared between the 2 bottom panes.

    Lastly, on bigger tanks, the glass is cut so that there are a 2mm gap between the panes. Silicone added into that joint so that the glass do not actually touch each other. That gives a lot stronger joint. Check out @Manic nano build to understand this one
    Manic's Starfire Nano Cube - Page 3 - Marine Aquariums of South Africa
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 26 Nov 2015
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  10. FransSny

    FransSny

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    I agree with the explenation Riaan has given. I have stupped building "type A" tanks and prefer to do all tanks Type B for strenth
     
  11. Shaun88

    Shaun88

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    Thanks Riaan and Frans, appreciate the input. On a 1000x800x600(H) 10mm glass, do you guys suggest on rather going with type B? Would a 10mm base be sufficient, will be built on a proper stand with more thatn enough cross support to stand on?
     
  12. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Type B would be best (type A will also work fine) , I take it you will be bracing top and bottom ? 10 mm base is fine as IMHO the base doesnt really take that much strain (the side panes do), having a thicker bottom pane just gives one a bit more piece of mind for rockslides etc
     
  13. Shaun88

    Shaun88

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    Thanks Frans,

    Any suggestions on the bracing of the bottom, size and thikness, top will be a rimmless and open, so no top bracing. Skinny overflow.
     
  14. FransSny

    FransSny

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    On that size you would be fine with a brace 50 mm wide , same thickness. If you are Really worried you can go 1 size thicker on the brace ie 12 mm really depends on how much you trust your tank building skills !

    Good luck with the build, I am self in the process of finishing a 1,2 rimless
     
  15. sujaydp

    sujaydp Thread Starter

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    I Guess braces will give additional support/strength for tanks of 30 Gallon upwards... any comments..?
     
  16. FransSny

    FransSny

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    You are correct in a sense as adding bracing will decrease the amount of outward flex created by water pressure. Adding more braces (on the right places) will thus decrease glass thickness required BUT from an aesthetic point of view , I prefer to use thicker glass and as little bracing as possible
     
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