Anemone's

Discussion in 'Invertebrates' started by Alan, 16 Sep 2007.

  1. Alan

    Alan Admin MASA Contributor

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    One of the most frequent animals found in a marine aquarium is an anemone. This poor animal is also the one that has a really high mortality rate. I don't think there are many of us that can say we have never lost an anemone and 9 times out of 10 it was our fault. This is one of the animals that is most sought after by beginners, once they have decided to get into the hobby they are really intrigued by the clown fish/anemone relationship. I would really like to put a thread together where folk could have a reference as to types of anemone's that are easier to keep, conditions to keep them under, tips on how to safe guard a nenny from a power head or heater, feeding, lighting and tips on how to get an anemone to stay in the spot you placed him. There are many tips and tricks that folk use.
    Sorry was called away half way through the post and didn't feel like redoing the whole thing again.
    It is strongly recommended that anemone's are added to an established tank rather then a new tank and the reefer should be fairly experienced. Different anemones have different lighting requirements but generally reef lighting MH or T5's are preferred as they are animals that feed from photosynthesis although only partially and do require feeding of small tit bits once or twice a week. Please beware of white anemone's as these are usually bleached IE lost their zoanthilia[sp] and really do need special care and constant feeding to get them through this stressed state. There are very few white anemone's found in nature, if any.
    I have about 5 anemonies in the system 5 Bubble tips[BTA] and one sand anemone. All kept under MH or T5 lighting. The nenny's that are not in the main tank are all fed at least once a week, the sand anemone in the main system is rarely fed as it does catch the food meant for the fish.
    I would venture to say that of all the anemone's for sale, the BTA is probably the easiest of the lot and really comes in a range of spectacular colours. The only down fall of this anemone is its tendency to wander around the tank.
    My sand anemone is also fairly easy and stays in the substrate and does not wonder at all. The down side of this nenny is its fairly drab colour mostly come in brown.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 17 Sep 2007
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  3. Reaper

    Reaper

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    Mkay, I'll start it off then.

    I've had 2 nennies, a colourful (don't know scientific names) and a sand nennie.

    The colourfull died for an unknown reason - it was fine the one day, the next it deminished, the next it was dead...

    My sand nennie was the first "coral" I had, and is still going strong. He's stuck right in the front left corner of the tank, buried in the substrate (hence the name - sand anemone), and I can clearly see the difference the lights make.

    I had 2 t5 blue's and 2 t5 whites, all 4 foots in the canopy - the nennie was happy. Since I added my mh's, the nennie has opened up more during light time, and it seems happier.

    I feed it every 3rd day - a piece of pink prawn, or squid, or just from the marine mix.

    I've got two clowns hosting in it (since the colourful died), and it seems generally very happy. Had him now for about a year...
     
  4. ed

    ed

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    I've had an Heteractis for about 4 years, a awesome but not a n easy species to keep. mine died after my 2 tank broke an i had to place it in my softy tank, it couldn't settle and after the third time in the pump it was all over (very sad day).
    i Love nennies but would not keep any anymore. my tank are already established and a nenny would not settle there easily.

    i would like to give some advise to those who are thinking about keeping this animal.
    (This is very brief because of space, suz)

    Choose a animal:
    Look at the specie you would like to keep. Research is imperative. Never buy a nenny because it is there an available.
    Also remember that on any given reef u will only find one specie of nenny. they wage toxic war against one another. thats why people with 2 or more nennies will find that after a short time one just (for no reason - apparently) die. so make your choice and stick to one specie.

    All nennies should b fed at least once a week, but 2-3 time is better depending on how fast u want it to grow. best food to feed IME is small chunks of food, if u give it , say a whole mussel, you'll find that it will only digest the outer skin and deposit the rest back into your system (usually when you are not around and in an place you cannot retrieve it). with minced mussel (or prawn or what ever meaty stuff) you'll get almost no excretions and debris.

    Commonly available species:
    Heteractis (formally known as Radianthus):
    not a specie for beginners but not to hard to keep if u give it what it requires.
    they need strong light (Mh preferred). good strong current, they tend to wander looking for a good current to sit in. i would rate current above light. but if the light is not good enough it will also wander around. they like a good outcropping right under the lights. (if you have a power failure of more than two hours u nennies might start to wander, so beware).
    Stoichactis (Carpets)
    Some of them could get fairly large so make sure your tank is big enough. not difficult to keep an d very easy to feed. Beware though when handling this animal, it has a very nasty sting and can irritate your skin (especially if it touches your wrists - immediately wash in very warm water). they like good lights and good current. they will either perch on a rock or bed in the sand. DO NOT try to mix this with heteractis (experience), the heteractis kill my carpet within 6 months. Chemical warfare is a slow process in witch there is one or no winner, u might loose both.
    Condylactis
    usually not as colorful, but a good specie to keep, fairly hardy and tolerant. can also grow quite fast under good conditions.
    BTA
    Alan already wrote about, IMO a great starter specie, nice colors and might even propagate in your system. they like to sit in a crevasse, so a small pot i the rock makes a excellent home and helps them not to wander.

    there is so much more to say, but lets draw to an end here. One last plead please do not buy Heteractis magnifica (even if u r experienced). this species import survival rate is extremely low. only 1/30 will survive and then those that survive usually do not live longer than a few months.

    this is some of my experience comment are welcome.
     
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  5. Alan

    Alan Thread Starter Admin MASA Contributor

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    I must agree here that the Heteractis is not a suitable anemone for a closed system and are very light demanding, because of this they climb to the highest points in your reef system. They do tend to move around a fair amount.
    Carpet anemone's although fairly hardy do have a powerful sting and are real fish eaters, if a fish touches the anemone accidently and is not caught it will 9 times out of 10 die from the sting.
    Here are some great tips on how to make your pumps fairly anemone safe.
    http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm
     
  6. seank

    seank

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    Thank you Both for very good info. Matter of interest. What would the general life expectancy of a Carpet be?????
     
  7. Alan

    Alan Thread Starter Admin MASA Contributor

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    Sean according to studies done anemone's don't age so the ones we get in our systems could be hundreds of years old. In fact most anti aging research at the moment is done on anemone's.
     
  8. seank

    seank

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    Now this is even more interesting. Thank you. So if I ever sell one of my nennies I will advertise it as a "Vintage Nennie for sale" and obviously triple the price... LoL
     
  9. Tridan

    Tridan

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    Bubble tip

    I have had my red bubble tip for a while now and it is realy going well, i have a pair of black foot clowns in it. My bta has split once on its own, but i havent got the guts to propagate it, I have looked into purchasing other anems but chose not to as most that we get are raped from our ocean, ( am strogly agaisnt wild cought anems )
    I stand corrected and am willing to conciede if i am wrong but i have been told that clown fish only spawn in radianthus in the wild, and adapt in captivity. I also believe that a clown will only spawn with one anem , like a life long partner. If im wrong than sorry for the misinformation that is how i got it, but if i amright then please guys find out were your anem comes from before you buy it,and rather go for tank propagated anems.
    thanks:)
     
  10. herkie

    herkie R.I.P.

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    I think this is the first time in my life that I hear about something that does not age. Very interesting.
     
  11. Benanna

    Benanna

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    Hi everyone, sorry I havn't been active on the site for some time, been away and very busy at work.

    Anyway, I have had a carpet in my small system (170L cube) with 1 x MH and actinic for almost 2 years. The first 15 months it never moved at all and was loved by my one Clarkii Clown. I decided to get rid of the clown as he grew too big and never allowed me to add any additions to the tank, very aggresive. About two days after I removed the clown, the carpet started to do the walk and has now moved to the opposite side of the tank and tucked itself away behind a rock.

    I wonder if it went looking for its partner. Could this be the case. It has never opened up again to a size as large as it was with the clown.
     
  12. cybervic

    cybervic

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    You do not need a nenny to have your clownfish spawn. Feed them, get te water right and they will spawn. To raise the young is a bit more tricky, but there are lots of reading material on the web about raising clowns.Wikus
     
  13. Frank

    Frank

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    Hi

    I have a Radianthus (Heteractis Magnifica) which I have had for nearly five years now. Not sure what all the fuss is about actually because I find it very easy. Moved around a bit like all Anemones at first but settled down on an outcrop and has stayed put since.
    I have a pair of Clarkii clowns that host in it.They are quite big now but have never spawned.
    I think at the end of the day it's all about good husbandry, ....regular water changes and ensuring basic parameters are what they should be.Iv'e gone away from trying every damn new product that is suggested and only dose Strotium and Iodine these days and my Aquarium has never looked better.
    Would post a pic , but can't figure out how:) !!
     
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  14. viper357

    viper357 Admin MASA Contributor

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    :nono: that's not an excuse Frank :p

    Create an account at www.photobucket.com (its free) upload your image, then underneath your newly uploaded image, left click in the box that has IMG in it, then right click and paste into your post, simple. Now let's see those pics :D
     
  15. Alan

    Alan Thread Starter Admin MASA Contributor

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    Hi Frank, what lighting do you have over the system? I do believe the Radianthus needs MH lighting and good water flow.
     
  16. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Alan - I don't have my heteractis magnifica as long a time as Frank's - BUT, I can tell you this - I had mine under T5 lighting (about 15cm from the water's surface and the T5 globes), and the nemmie moved around VERY slightly (in a 4-5cm area on one rock)...... BUT, once I added another power-head point from back of the tank to front, and my ReSun blowing the water/current JUST behind my nemmie (and the new power-head JUST to the left of the nemmie), as well as replaced my l/hand metal halide globe, the nemmie seemed to have blossomed! It seems to be "tanning" every day now, pointing right towards the metal halide light...

    I also feed my nemmie EVERY weekend.... Currently my nemmie seems as happy as a pig in mud ;-)
     
  17. jacquesb

    jacquesb Retired Moderator

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    Hi Benanna. It is quite possible that this is the case. I have read the anemone's do indeed fare MUCH better in an aquarium WITH hosting clown-fish, rather than without.

    It is possible that the clown-fish assisted in supplying food, companion-ship etc, and that the nemmie now does not have that anymore, and is also now not "happy anymore"....

    Just remember to keep on feeding your carpet nemmie - otherwise it will most likely end up dying....
     
  18. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    I have some kind of bta (but it is white,do you think it bleaced or what?), and i have a florida.
    They did very well for the first few months and 2 weeks ago the looked like they wanted to die, my florida opened and closed 2-5 times a day and my bta 2times a day.
    I stressed so much, because if they deflate they aren't happy with the water that they took in the first time,and they make the water stink ect.
    My banner and my dottyback died after they did it for 4 days(they got some kind of funges).

    I added carbon and got a UV sterilizer 90cm 30W and a carbon and phos ractor
    and did a 20% WC.
    BTA and Florida seems to be doing better know.(when my banner died i didn't see his corps and yesterday my bta spat out his bones)

    Do you think these nemies are having a cemical war or not?
     
  19. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    this is photo's about 4 weeks ago
     
  20. Hill

    Hill

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    It could very well be chemical warfare. The carbon will help. Removing one would be better.
     
  21. lanzo

    lanzo Sponsor

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    The florida or the bta
     
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