anemone problem

Discussion in 'Anemone's' started by Zenith, 16 Jul 2009.

  1. Zenith

    Zenith

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    Hi All

    I have an issue with my anemone (magnificent) he/she/it moved up my tank to the top of the glass, it is not the lights that wass the problem but i forgot to switch on the pumps in the tank after feeding it . i need to get it of the glass and back on the rocks how do i do it.

    Thanks
     
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  3. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    before you worry bout moving it, lets cover some our bases a bit....

    can you answer the following Q's
    how old is your system in its current form
    how long have you had the nennie
    What lighting do you have
    what are the dimensions of the tank
    what do you have interms of flow in the tank
    what filtration do you run on the tank
    how much live rock do you have
    do you have any other nennies
    What substrate are you running
    Have you made any changes to the tank recently

    With answers to this i am sure we can help you, It is important to realize that a nennie "walking" as we refer to it is an indication that the nennie is seriously unhappy !!
     
  4. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Hmmm, the obvious question, to which you already answered, is what lights do you have? You said it is not the light, but again, what light do you have? Type and Wattage please?

    Then, how does the rest of your paramaters look like?

    It might not even be due to the pumps not switched on, that made it move, any other factor could contribute. Is the nennie bleached or fully colored up? Do you feed it? If so, what and how often?

    You can move it, and the easiest way would be to lift it with your hands. This needs to be done VERY VERY delicately, as you might have a good chance to tear it. Basically you find a "looser" spot on the foot, and rub it gently off the glass, once the foot lifts a bit, you work your way around the anemone, untill loose. Then place it where you want.

    But I feel we still need the above questions to be answered, otherwise you might find the anemone just moving once again. :p

    This is a Heteractis species (same family as the Crispa) and I am not sure whether you are aware, but they are some of the more difficult anemone to keep, although many reefers do have great success with them. But help us help you help it by giving all info you can.;)
     
  5. Zenith

    Zenith Thread Starter

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    1 System 1 year old
    2 Nennie about 4 months
    3 Lights 2 X 10000k 54w 2 X 12000k 2 X 20000k
    4 Dim 1.88m X 600mm X 600mm with 50mm fine crushed coral
    5 Flow 2 X 2500 powerheads + double barel wavemaker(3000lph) and flow from sump(not sure the flow rate but the pump is est 2500lph @ 1.5m high)
    6 Sump filter with vulcanic rock or lava rock (not sure anymore)
    7 no live rock yet
    8 no other nennies
    9 fine crushed coral substrate
    10 n changes in the last 3 months
     
  6. Travis1

    Travis1 (wilsontravy)

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    any mh's?
     
  7. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Lights... There is one problem. If I undertand right, those are T5's? No metal halides? The Heteractis species are not like the buble tip species, they need PLENTY light, and then just a little more... Your tank is 600mm deep. T5's can't penetrate the water that deep to give the coral all the light (PUR) they need for photosynthesis of the zooxantellae algae inside them. The fact that there was no flow, maybe just pushed the nennie over the edge of irritation and it decided to move up, closer to the light.

    If you plan to keep it under T5's, you would need to keep it WAY WAY up there under the lights, and then give it enough light time to "eat"...

    No live rock? Are you sure? Do you only have base rock? Remember that live rock really helps in filtration of the tank, so you MUST get as much as possible, as soon as possible.

    Flow seems good, and the tank age seems good, but still it's weird not having any liverock.

    Is the nennie bleached? (white)
     
  8. Zenith

    Zenith Thread Starter

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    nah not yet still checking k and wattage I found very powerful led`s with 10000k rating so still need to experiment with it as mabe replacement for MH`s They will run a lot cooler that mh with the same or better effect than MH (Well Mabe.) also a lot less power hungry.

    Any thoughts on led lighting. ( not florecent replacment, normal LED`s from places like rs components or communica.)
     
  9. Zenith

    Zenith Thread Starter

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    no my nennie is nice and pink, i feed it 1 block of micro plankton 1ce a week
     
  10. Zenith

    Zenith Thread Starter

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    defrosted of cause
     
  11. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Okey, LED has been discussed on many threads. In a nutshell, very good techno, but unless you have R20K+ not worth it...

    I was also a very pro T5 person, until intense research and the help of others on MASA. T5's are just not as good as MH's, and will propably never be.

    You mentioned a few factors, so let me just try and explain:

    Heat: Yes, LED's does not have as much heat as MH's, but the use heat sink techno to dispose of the heat, so it is there, thrust me. The heat under a T5 and a MH is the same. Tony has done this exercise for us. The only diffs is, that a T5 spreads it over a distance. MH's does however cause the direct water around the coral to be about 1-2 degrees warmer than the rest of the water, thus plenty flow is required.

    Energy: You are running 6x T5's. If the are propably 80Watts each right (on your size tank) so that totals to 480W being used. If you run two 150W MH's that is 300W, and use two 80W T5's as actinics, then you still sit at 480W with much better lights!!! ;)

    The huge diffs between MH and T5's, is that MH gives off more lumen per watt, than what T5's does. There is a T5 technology that I have not been able to find in SA, which is called VHO T5's or VERY HIGH OUTPUT T5's. As our friends in the US, they use them. Those T5's do a decent job, but not the same as MH's yet.

    Again, yes, you can keep the nennies under T5's, but I would not have Heteractis species (again) under them. Maybe bubble tips yes, but then they still need to be high up.

    Hope this clears out one or two thing for you.
     
  12. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Then just on feeding, yes, micro plankton is good to feed, and once a week MIGHT be okey, but I would suggest feeding it more often, say once every two or three days, and maybe feed it krill, stint (silversides) or shrimps twice, and then once your micro plnkton.

    This might also be a reason for it moving, it might be hungry - lock your fridge!!! :lol:

    The pink color is great!!!! Keep it there, but check the lights once again. Move your Nennie higher, otherwise it may start bleaching. Four months is not a long time in the life of an anemone, and seeing that it started moving now, it means it is not happy with something, so try all you can. Feeding and moving closer to the top.;)
     
  13. Neil H

    Neil H Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Great advice from Jaco,

    I agree that the lights may be the problem here, and would not advocate moving the nennie, she will move when she is ready.

    Also agree with the silverside advice !
     
  14. Zenith

    Zenith Thread Starter

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    she moved so hi if i mover her higher i have to stik her to my t5`s
     
  15. Jaco Schoeman

    Jaco Schoeman MASA Contributor

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    Then that is fine where she is there. Just make sure that if the power sould go off, and some syphoning does occur, that she will not be left dry being so high. If she is on the glass, you can try and take her off as I explained, but, then put her on the highest point in the tank. If there is no space there - then make space!!! ;)

    I am very confident that it is lighting and feeding that is taking it's toll on it, so start working from there...
     
  16. Warr7207

    Warr7207

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    Your nemmie is hungry. This surface behaviour, is classic response by these species to being hungry.

    To get it back is not going be easy. Try feeding it every day, till you see it move back into the reef. Then start feeding twice a week.
     
  17. Orson

    Orson

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    I agree, all the literature says feed a whole shrimp at least 2x a week. I feed sea food mix 3x a week from P 'n P. The packet is cheap as well, +-R25 a packet, and the food varies which is always a good idea. The literature also mentioned that magnificas like to be higher up on a rock (good news for your T5s) and in good flow.
    Durban air port has a monster aquarium with 2 or 3 magnificas happy on top of the reef.

    If you feed enough I find that the nenies stand up and "show off". If its "sitting down" and the tenticle are a little flat, feed it. My little observation. Also nennies seam to have more energy for rougher clowns.

    From my experience with power failures, nennies may stretch up to the surface when I inspect the aquarium first thing in the morning but they don't move - grab a jug, scoop water up and poor in for 10 min and things settle. Any movements I've had have been with the increase or decrease of light intensity resulting form the change of seasons (I illuminate with sun light).

    If you only partly loosen the nennies grip as discussed above, leave it, and it will probably be enough to convince the nenie its time to move, bad spot. Give it 10 min and it will start to let go and move its self - less chance of tearing the foot. You might have to repeat the harasment a few times. Then get him.:)

    p.s. as usual make sure you're water is top notch, but that goes without saying.
     
  18. Fishy Steve

    Fishy Steve Hiden super user

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    I didn't c what type of T5's he's using but if its 6 54watt Geissman or ATI then i'm pretty sure its enough. And i didn't c where he said how high it was in the tank to start off with. So dont think of upgrading to Mh just yet if u have decent T5's. Seems like everyone is going overboard with amenone care. If its been good for 4 months in its spot and moved now when there was no flow it logically seems that was the cause. This is just my opinion. Maybe your T5's just need replacing not upgrading to Mh. Geissman and ATI have really good Lumen's to watt ratio. I'm going to assume that your water level is around 5cm from the top of your tank and your substrate is 5cm so the tank is actually 50cm high and the Anemone obviously wasn't flat on the sand. So couldn't have been too deep for T5's. Remember, this is all just my 2cents.
     
  19. Fishy Steve

    Fishy Steve Hiden super user

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    One last thing. What did u seed your tank with if u dont have live rock? If nothing, i suggest u get at least one decent piece just to get some nice micro life in the tank.
     
  20. Anemone

    Anemone

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    I agree that the T5 lighting is not enough. This species needs MH.
     
  21. Furbz

    Furbz

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    hi guys.
    i have a problem with my anemone (H. magnifica)
    over the past few weeks it has steadily been declining in health.
    for some reason, out of the blue it seems to have gone into light shock.
    the odd thing is it keeps moving (slowly) higher and higher in my tank??
    every morning it seems ok, until the lights kick in.
    first my actinics turn on (all 48W) of them. and later the halide.
    anyone know whats going on here??

    water is perfect. going to be moving it into my Q tank. will only have 96W of light and the tank does get some decent direct sunlight from a skylight.
    i dont actually know what else to do...

    here is a picture of it shortly after my lights turned on...
    [​IMG]
     
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