Anemone not eating

Discussion in 'Anemone's' started by Omnitank, 19 Apr 2013.

  1. Omnitank

    Omnitank

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    Hi guys
    Just a quick question for the anemone gurus:
    I recently bought an anemone (some macrodactyla or sand anemone or red base anemone) from the LPS. It was healthy and looked good with no signs of illness or injuries. After the proper preps which lasted about three hours) I was worried because it wasn't digging into the substrate like my first one did. After about three days of floating around and giving me nightmares, it settled in a type of hollow in one of the rocks. No worries there, because it looked happy and opened up and everything.
    The guy at the LPS told me not to feed it until about a week or so after I introduced it into the tank. Problem is, I've had it for 3 weeks now, and the guy isn't interested in food. He looks fine and happy, does not move around (he picked a spot where there is not much flow and seems to be happy with the light). I tried feeding mussel and shrimp, but it doesn't take it. Both times my wife and I was in anticipation of seeing it swallow the little piece of food, just to watch the other fish (especially the Sailfin Tang) very carefully nipping the food from its tentacles. Its still looking happy though.
    Should I worry???
    What can I do???
    :(
     
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  3. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    need some more info on the tank; lighting, nutrient levels, size etc

    what happened to the first one?
     
  4. Anemone

    Anemone

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    Agreed!

    Also a picture of the anemone would be very helpful. Is the anemone white?
     
  5. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    Yes, its a white anemone.
    I have a 700l tank with T5's - waiting anxiously for my LED's. DSB, AquaMedic skimmer, UV light (only running it occasionally) and I dose with Red Sea's ABC+.
    I've also been dosing carbon for the last week or so.
    The parameters are not ideal, and I've been struggling with cayno over the last few weeks. Been doing some extra water changes (NSW) and trying to get back to normal. Stability to me is better than having the cayno problem resolved with something chemical. Working on installing a reactor with Seachem Matrix. Also
    I'm also cutting back on the time that the lights are switched on, just going for about 8 hours per day.
    :blush:
     
  6. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    I've already switched off the lights, so i will take a pic tomorrow ;)
     
  7. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    a white nennie is usually a bad sign :( I'll let the other members speak though cus nennies are difficult subjects
     
    Last edited: 19 Apr 2013
  8. Anemone

    Anemone

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    A white anemone is a unhealthy anemone! It has expelled it's zooxanthellae. It may not eat for some time. But what is most important right now is providing it with prestine conditions. How long has this tank been up and running? What are the water parameters? A picture would help us out.
     
  9. pkc

    pkc

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    There are no white anemones, the white means it is back to where the same creature was as a coral polyp in the evolutionary stages of no symbiotic algae on board as yet.
    If your waters are of good quality then the expelled symbiotic algae means nothing at all. Anemones do not need the algae, as they evolved to become mobile unlike acropora and similar that evolved to have no mobility. Same creature, different algae species uptake resulting in different evolutionary out comes.
    If the food you are trying to feed the anemone does not have preservatives with in, then your water quality is the issue! Most marinara, prawns, general bait and so on have preservatives added to these and the anemone, once the algae has been expelled, may not except these as the algae would have normally absorbed the preventives-toxins. So with out the symbiotic algae present, the foods will now make the anemone sick!
    An anemone does not need symbiotic algae at all to multiply A sexually only, but it does need good water quality like near no nitrates and near no nutrients and near no naturally produced toxins to be healthy.
    They need the guts, the nervous system, the bones everything that is what makes up living animals in their food source to survive well.
    I use many varied, fully intact planktonic and large marine life forms in my anemone foods blended up with lots of bacteria development resisting salts added at approximately 5 to 7 times the salt level of the ocean in the fluid I add the mix to, then frozen-sealed for use along the ways.
    When thawed it lasts for days due to very high salt levels and I place it into the funnel and tube over the anemone for direct feeding and mine would A sexually divide around each week and if some were bleached by being out of the light, it mattered not, they still divided each week.
     
  10. Anemone

    Anemone

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    This response unfortunately just blew me away! I don't even know where to begin!

    A hosting anemone certainly DOES need zooxanthellae to be healthy. I don't believe that this system is the cause of the bleaching. It was likely purchased that way. However, the condition of this tank now is important in the recovery of this anemone.

    If the anemone is not healthy enough to hold on to it's food it doesn't matter what you're feeding it. However, the anemone does NOT require bones, guts or the nervous system to thrive.

    A sexual reproduction wasn't the topic of this thread....but, forcing an unhealthy anemone split is just going to cause more stress on this creature.

    You are forcing a split on an anemone EVERY week? :eek:
     
  11. pkc

    pkc

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    No, they did it on their own, I do not split them and yet they divide!
    Not all species of anemones will act in this way, but all that I have used recover or live on and thrive with out the symbiotic algae in aquariums with unsuitable lighting to encourage the algae. The common ones I have used are our local Heteractus and the common green Entacmea.The entacmea is the one that will do this at it’s best, for myself and a friend back when we used to breed them for the market. They actually multiplied quicker then you could find them in the wild.
    I found that their division seemed directly related to how much and what they consumed and the quality of waters they are in and take in.
    That’s what I have found from my observations,so what other reasons are explained for this, I have no idea and have not researched it at all. Any of what I have passed on,is what I have done!
    We actually find varied anemones at times in the wild bleached and the symbiotic algae they need is usually available sooner or later, then they recover nicely in relation to colour both in the wild or in the aquarium with suitable conditions and lighting of course.
    As time goes on and the issue that caused it to bleach is gone, they nearly always do fine as is with out the algae.
    I have never had an issue with bleached anemones, but I have found that they will not receive foods tainted by the additives put to these foods both on the trawlers, in the processing and packaging.
    My experience with mainly entacmea anemones after some years did not consist of problems with bad health, any issues that put me off them after the market became very weak, due to reef aquariums popularity, is they would begin to take over the aquariums if still well fed.
    Over here in Bris there are few aquarium shops that will buy them or bother with them at all any more.
    One of the oldest and respected marine shopkeepers refuses to stock any at all for over 8 years now. Also, as of two years back the largest reef aquariums sales lfs in bris stoped carrying any as well and will only get them by special order other reefers tell me.
    My findings are obviously not yours and others will get other results and maybe use other ways and that is the hobby in a nut shell.
    Its funny what some say at times, I remember someone a while back saying corals achieve 98 percent of their food needs from their symbiotic algae,lol.
    Amazing what some people believe! The corals creature feeds; more so at night and the waste from this exercise mostly feeds the symbiotic algae? But its just the algae?lol!Though corals on the other hand are essentialy the same creature more or less,they can not exist with out the symiotic algae,that i have tried as well and it rarely works for very long,even with direct feeding.
    I find so much said about this hobby so very funny at times,and you may see my findings as quite funny, such is life!
     
    Last edited: 20 Apr 2013
  12. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    Hi guys, sorry I was gone that long - had a hectic weekend (work over weekends).

    Anemone is right, I purchased it like that. Here is a pic of how it looks, that was how it looked in the LPS and it seemed quite happy.
    The tank has been running for about two years, and on the pic you'll clearly see the cayno that I mentioned earlier. I am on the winning track with it, so I believe it should be sorted out in a few week's time.
    My main concern is the feeding, otherwise it seems pretty OK.

    20130420_115647 (2).jpg
     
  13. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    is the nennie still ok? and is it staying put or moving around?

    Listen to Anemone, she knows what she's on about
     
  14. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    This morning it took a piece of mussel :thumbup:

    Looking fine, but you know how it goes, we just want the best for our watery friends.
     
  15. Dorry

    Dorry dorry

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    You can also feed them lance fish. Will take it immediately.
     
  16. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    Just an observation..... your substrate looks to be crushed coral and quite chunky pieces, in other words...detritus trap ie: nitrate factory and that may not be good for your water quality which is somewhat important for keeping anemone's. You may want to look into changing that to something finer. Reggies playsand or even natural sea sand seeing that you're in KZN but try to get from an area that's away from populated area's or a few meter's into the surf. Good luck with the nennie, try not to feed her too big a piece of food and not too often or at least until it's looking better.
     
  17. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    Thanks gMAN, but I'm actually in PE (also at the sea, but far from KZN)
    That's the first time that someone told me about the danger of crushed coral as substrate. I wil look into it.:(
     
  18. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    If you do decide to change, don't remove it all at once. Depending on how much you have, I would remove a little each day over 7-10days.
     
  19. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    another question, is the nennie's tentacles sticky if you touch with your fingers?
     
  20. Omnitank

    Omnitank Thread Starter

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    Good advice, will remember that.

    To tell you the truth, I believe it is, but I don't want to bother the nennie with my hands. I think its doing ok now seeing that its eating and looking fine. Maybe it needed some time to settle after I bought it.
    Thanks
     
  21. gMAN

    gMAN with the plan

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    Cool, good luck and keep us posted on it's progress :thumbup:
     
    Last edited: 23 Apr 2013
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