4 months running - black aglae hasbecome a problem

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by cmclellen, 30 Sep 2009.

  1. cmclellen

    cmclellen

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    Hi,

    My tank has been up and running for about 4 months now. Every 2 weeks I do a 10% water change. It's about a 400l-500l tank - including water in sump. About a month back I started noticing black algae forming, and now it's in patches and making my tank look terrible - please see pics below. Bubbles have formed on the sand bed as well as on the live rock. My pump is a 2,000l/h pump, so the tank is being cycled +-6x an hour. I had initially run a protein skimmer, but as you can see most of the tank is a DIY effort - the DIY protein skimmer wasn't as successful, so I took it out. The bio-load is pretty low - 2 fish with hermit crab and cleaner shrimp. Do you think having a protein skimmer will solve this issue?

    Many thanks.

    [​IMG]

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  3. Tridan

    Tridan

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    you have a cyano problem dude and need a skimmer
     
  4. Annoying

    Annoying

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    Jip you would deffinetly need a skimmer to get rid of that... The best that you can do is to syphon out most of the cyano ( it comes of easily if you just use a 20mm pipe) and get a skimmer (my cyano didn't stop till I put my skimmer in)
     
  5. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Skimmer would help.

    Also your DSB seems very deep. Aim for 12 - 15 cm. What is the flow rate over your DSB. Remeber you want a lot of water contact (long time) with the DSB for the critters to assist
     
  6. FransSny

    FransSny

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    Sorry BTW add some flow in your display tank
     
  7. cmclellen

    cmclellen Thread Starter

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    Thanks guys for all the input, will be trying my hand at making a seconds protein skimmer this coming weekend - hopefully my tank starts looking a bit better.

    I currently just have a single pump rated at 2,000l/h that cycles the water through filter, DSB and main display tank - that should be enough as it's cycling the water +-6x an hour.

    I just have a Koralia 2 power head in my tank - is that ok, or you think I should have more powerheads?

    Also, the temperature in the tank is between 25-26 degres celcius - is that fine for fish and eventually I want to keep corals once I have everything stable and under control, probably only after a year or so.

    thanks again guys for all the help.
     
  8. Annoying

    Annoying

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    For a marine tank the turnover INSIDE the aquarium must be 20 times plus so I think it's to little. Powerhead aren't actually your best option. The best would be an marine aquarium pump because it doesn't blow the water in one stream but flows around everything.
     
  9. martinhal

    martinhal

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    Welcome ! Is the DSB DIY ? The reason I ask is that ideally it should be 100% sealed that no water with O2 can get into the sand , if it gets in the DSB will be less effective. A good skimmer also helps. Are you using RO water ?
     
  10. flipwhip

    flipwhip

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    lets just hope there’s still some silicon left for any more sealing to be done….lol:lol:
     
  11. cmclellen

    cmclellen Thread Starter

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    Yes, almost everything was DIY - I have baffles in place preventing any air bubbles from getting through to DSB - is that what you mean by sealed?

    Yeah, about the excess silicone - something I realized after setting everything up was that in the case of a power outage, my sump couldn't quite hold all the water coming from overflow, so had to just extend - works great now, just looks a little messy, but this tank was really meant for learning purposes, and so far have learnt loads.

    I am using RO water - have a waterboy RO unit with de-ionizer. I have about 4-5 litre of water evaporation a day - is that normal? How can I slow this down? Also, is a 1.025 slinity level fine to keep both fish and corals? I've bought a electric water-level valve, but need a water flow solenoid of dorts to connect up to my RO unit to turn off flow from main water supply when my RO water container is full - you know where I can get one?

    Will change my marine pump this weekend to try get to 20x/h flow in main tank.


    Thanks guys for all the help.
     
  12. martinhal

    martinhal

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    As long as no water is getting into the sand of the DSB through the sides of the glass it should be fine. A DSB also thakes a few moths to get going - I put mine in Oct last year and took untill Feb to get my N03 <5ppm.

    4-5L per day is normal - why not get a cheap Reef Octo Auto top ?

    Try get some cheap Sun Sun Pumps to get more flow in yout DT that way you gan get more flow rer Rand.

    Your SG is fine for corals and fish.

    In you setup I would still recommend a skimmer and P04 reactor.

    I see that you are in Northrinding , If you have some time you are welcome to have a look at my setup , its simple and works for me.
     
  13. cmclellen

    cmclellen Thread Starter

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    That would be awesome.

    Thanks for the info, will go to the LFS in Northgate, so will see if they have the Reef Octo auto top up there.

    Will look into getting a P04 reactor and more pumps for the DT.
     
  14. Tony

    Tony

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    Also ask Donovan for Aquasalz by Prodac. It's an oxygen salt which helps with cyano.
     
  15. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    We need more info. PO4 level? NO3? PH? KH? Also let us know what type of lighting you have. The tank is only 4 months old, so you can expect some algae and cyno cycles to occur, but yours looks like something is amiss, especially with your low bio-load.
     
  16. cmclellen

    cmclellen Thread Starter

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    Excellent, I'll ask him.

    I'll get these parameters for you tonight.
     
  17. Broder

    Broder Mudshark

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    Buy the test kits. You'll need to monitor your parameters on an ongoing basis. Nitrate kit would probably be the most important at this stage but all of the ones that I mentioned will be necessary.
     
  18. Tony

    Tony

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    With cyano remember its a bacteria so stop any carbon dosing or bacteria which will just fuel it. The skimmer along with the oxygen salts will help with the cyano
     
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