1.2m Tank Build Thread

Discussion in 'Medium Tanks' started by ANiMOSiTY, 27 Mar 2013.

  1. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY

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    Finally getting started :)

    Tank dimensions will be:
    Length: 1200mm
    Width: 580mm
    Height: 650mm

    The width is limited by a counter that is next to the tank, so if I go too deep it will look a bit out of place.

    I've begun my Arduino-powered Reef Controller and built a DIY LED lighting unit.

    LED Unit:
    72 x 3 Watt LEDs
    50% 10000K Cool White
    50% Royal Blue
    2 x LPF-90D-48 Drivers
    Fully Dimmable via PWM, 10VDC or potentiometers

    The Arduino reef controller will output PWM to control the blue and white channels separately.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 11 Jun 2013
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  3. ChrisRaubs

    ChrisRaubs

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    Cool! Following...
     
  4. leslie hempel

    leslie hempel Moderator MASA Contributor

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    looking good!
     
  5. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY Thread Starter

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    Update time!

    Finally got some time to get the tank going.

    Tank is 1.2 meters long, 580mm deep and 650mm high.
    The depth is due to space constraints, but it works nicely.

    [​IMG]

    The DIY LED Lighting unit

    The mounting is a bit ugly, but it won't be visible.
    The plan is to get an open-top canopy to cover the top of the tank.
    That is currently being built.

    The LEDs are only on about 25% power here...
    [​IMG]

    C2C Overflow with two 50mm drains.
    I struggled to get bulkheads that would fit here, since the holes in the glass have a diameter of 50mm.
    But luckily I managed to find something without having to re-drill the glass.
    I used Riaan's idea with the soil vent pipe... Easy maintenance and nice and quiet!

    The second drain is an emergency drain which will drain water if the level rises too high.

    [​IMG]

    Bit of the sump...
    [​IMG]
    Reeftek TS2 skimmer and a deep sand bed.

    the only issue I'm having is that the sound of the water flowing down the drain pipes is very loud.
    The drain in the tank is quiet; the flow into the sump is quiet - only the actual pipes are loud.
    How can I quieten this down?
     
  6. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    number of options.
    Replace the 90 degree bends with 45 degree, That will stop the sound of the water hitting the elbow. You got about a 1 meter drop of water hitting that elbow.

    Looks like the right hand downpipe you already have a durso design fitted. I use a soil vent valve to create a quick solution. But it does not seems to have an airflow adjuster on it. Using a 6mm airline hose with those plastic adjusting valves then you can control the air going down. The falling water will pull air.

    Lastly you can build a baffle where the downpipe enters the tank. but then you cannot run your filter sock.
     
  7. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY Thread Starter

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    Thanks!
    Yea I think the main source of noise is the 90 degree bends.
    I drilled a 2mm hole in the top of the soil vent valve to allow air in, but I have not used any air line.
    I have some lying around - I'll try that.

    Luckily you posted that thread about using the soil vent valve - because I don't have quite enough space for a durso in my overflow box!

    Would there be a way to insulate the piping to shield some of the noise?
    Otherwise 45 degree bends sounds like the way to go.
     
  8. vipercore

    vipercore

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    tagging
     
  9. deadmeat2016

    deadmeat2016 Wouter

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    liking it!
     
  10. RiaanP

    RiaanP Moderator

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    First do the 45 degrees, and see then what is the difference. The other source of noise can be the bubbles where it enter the sump.

    My solution is a 110mm PVC with female endcap, hole cut in the endcap to get the downpipe through. Downpipe goes about max 100mm into the water. Bottom of 110mm pipe is cut so that water can exit at the bottom. The bubbles stay inside, salt creep as well. But then you cannot use filter socks.
     
  11. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY Thread Starter

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    Update time!

    The aquarium is built and running.
    Got a bit of a diatom problem (algae), which is expected in a new tank, but it's slowly disappearing.

    The DIY aquarium controller is awesome.
    I also DIYed an LED lighting unit.

    Most of the code was done myself.
    I did use many existing hardware libraries though (eg the temperature sensor libraries, LCD libraries etc)
    I had to edit and customize the LCD library though, since the LCD module I have is designed for a smaller Arduino.
    I had issues with interrupts and I/O mapping, but eventually got it right after getting some direction from the forum link mentioned in my first post.

    The core of the system is the Arduino MEGA2560.
    It contains all the controller logic and drives the touchscreen.
    I also included an RTC module which is small enough to fit inside the casing.

    (Excuse the casing - it's still in its prototype casing - new one is being built this weekend.. Dremel FTW)

    [​IMG]

    Text is very clear - but difficult to photograph with my phone.
    The icon menu is also part of the touch interface. I simply found some icons online that suited my needs.


    The second component is an ITead RBoard.
    It's a standalone Arduino, in a custom board that also has 4 relays. (It has some inputs too - very versatile board)

    Everything is soldered and then covered with a drop of hot-glue for insulation - just in case.

    [​IMG]

    The Mega sends commands to the Relay Board via a Serial connection.
    Temperature sensors and the PWM signals for the lighting pass from some connector blocks in the RBoard casing but connect straight to the Mega.

    [​IMG]

    So that DB9 serial cable that you see, has the following pinout:

    1 GND
    2 +5V
    3
    4 Serial Comms
    5 Serial Comms
    6 Temp Sensor Data Pin
    7
    8 LED PWM+ Channel 1 (Blue LEDs)
    9 LED PWM+ Channel 2 (White LEDs)

    He menu system allows for some on-the-fly aquarium management.
    Any customizations can also be saved to the Arduino's EEPROM in case of a power failure.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the RBoard in the sump cabinet
    [​IMG]

    Lots of tidying to be done, but that mess of cables isn't quite as bad as it looks.

    The Arduinos are powered by a 12V alarm system power supply, which also has battery-backup capability.
    It uses a standard 12V 7AH battery like you'd find in a gate motor.
    They're cheap and I didn't really have a need to build a power supply.
    Plus, it contains all the battery maintenance circuitry already. Easy.
     
    Last edited: 11 Jun 2013
  12. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY Thread Starter

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    FTS:

    [​IMG]

    (There is a crab in the bowl after being drip-acclimated.)

    Just waiting for the canopy to be finished now.
     
  13. butcherman

    butcherman Moderator MASA Contributor

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    Great progress. I would love more details on your controller there!
     
  14. ANiMOSiTY

    ANiMOSiTY Thread Starter

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    Thought I'd post an update..

    Tank is settling nicely. I've got a cyano problem lately, but I'll manage it.
    Since my last post, I made some changes to the reef controller and finished the canopy.
    Lots of livestock added too.

    Just a quick FTS or two...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As for the reef controller, its got a larger display, a new interface and a WiFi module now.
     
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