overflows

You could always make a center coloum overflow.That way you can view your cube from all 4 sides.
 
Just remember, slimlines are not that easy to silence as box corner overflows.
 
You can silence them very well by fitting a ball valve in the return pipe. You only have to close it slightly for the over flow to half fill and then it is just as quiet. I have a C2C accross the back of my 1.8m and in the begining it was like a toilet was permanantly flushing untill I fited a valve.
 
cclarity said:
You can silence them very well by fitting a ball valve in the return pipe.
Click to expand...
Yes I know. Until a Blue Green Chromis decides to go on holiday to the exotic sump. And gets stuck in the ball valve. Almost flooded my display. Opened the ball valve and the Chromis reach its holiday spot alive.
 
Also got a stupid snail stuck inside the slim line overflow, and it created its own nice waterfall sound. It died there. I could not get it out, as the overflow is under the bracing. Double stuffed. Had to set the ball valve so that the water level inside the overflow was very high to prevent the snail waterfall sound effects.

So, if you have bracing, do not use it over the slim line overflow, Or do not use a slim line overflow.

Been there, done that. That tank is now my remote DSB / refugium. And the way its set up, I do not need any ball valve to throttle it back.
 
Eish! just orded and paid (R1600) for an overflow box from Lifereef for my RSM, man I hope it works well, tired of worrying about one of my pumps giving up their life and having 400 litres on my floor!
 
toppdogg said:
Hey guys
building my dream cube soon as was wanting to know what would be the best way to go for overflow i am planing to drill hole in bottom of tank
options please !!!
thanks Dean
Click to expand...

Hello Dean

Another option is a TUNZE 1077.00 Central overflow
Depending on the Volume of the cube it draws water from the top and bottom is super quiet and as long as I have been doing TUNZE we have never encounted a problem. Have a Look at www.tunze.com and type in article no above.

George
 
thanks for all the input guys
i have decide to go with c2c but the one withe the small box in tank
and have 2 x 50mm diameter holes drilled in back glass
to accomodate flow as pic below

9114c92a99fce4eb.jpg


what you guys think ?
 
Yip, can work.
But you can make it narrower, into a slimline. My big tank standing empty works like this. On outside got T-piece with top end closed off with end cap. With small 6mm hole drilled into that to make a external Durso.
10944b4611ca98546.jpg

Here is the tank in its early days. Laying on its back. Bracing to the left.

But, it does not run the complete length.
 
very important, get the bulkheads FITTED before you do the overflow.

Its for obvious reasons...
 
I personally prefer to have the overflow box on the outside of the tank - both for aesthetics as well as long-term safety. This way, you only have to make one of the side (or back) pane (say) 20mm - 30mm lower than the rest of the tank, and build a box around the outside of the pane to the top level of the tank. Then drill the "floor" of this chamber and install one or two Durso's and a third emergency downpipe (absolutely essential...). The only disadvantage of this method is that the tank must stand a little further from the wall (if the overflow is on the back pane), but that can actually be a blessing in disguise as one then would have more space for the sump or below tank equipment.

Hennie
 
Reef Maniac said:
The only disadvantage of this method is that the tank must stand a little further from the wall
Click to expand...
Actually not. With the bulkhead going out the back of the tank, and with its elbow, you anyway will be at least 100mm away from the wall.

Only time you can have the tank almost up against the wall is where you have the bulkhead on the bottom of the tank, and got a L-shape skinny overflow built over it.
 
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