Ammonia off the charts

Treatments for Elevated Ammonia: Hydrosulfite and Bisulfite
A second type of compound used in commercial products (such as Seachem Prime) that claim to bind ammonia in marine aquaria is said to contain hydrosulfite (could be either HSO2- or - O2S-SO2-) and bisulfite (HSO3-). These compounds are well known dechlorinating agents, reducing Cl2 to chloride (Cl-), which process is also claimed to occur in these products. It is not apparent to me whether these ingredients actually react with ammonia in some fashion, or whether unstated ingredients in these products perform that function. Seachem chooses to keep the ingredients of their product secret, so aquarists cannot determine for themselves what is taking place, and how suitable it might be. Nevertheless, many aquarists seem to have successfully used products such as these to reduce ammonia's toxicity.
Note: products such as Seachem Prime hamper the ability to test for ammonia when using certain types of test kits (see above). Presumably, the product formed is still reactive with the Nessler reagents, even though it is not ammonia.
 
keyaam said:
Try to get some Microbacter 7 and add as recommended. Add this after the WC
Click to expand...
keyaam, i live in lichtenburg. no marine shops around. will have to order through post
will this help the problem?
 
Full Story Here - Ammonia and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com


Treatments for Elevated Ammonia: Water Changes
Water changes can be a fine way to reduce toxic ammonia levels, especially in a small system such as a quarantine or hospital tank. The effective use of this method, however, demands that the new salt water does not contain significant ammonia. Because many types of artificial seawater do contain ammonia (see above), this method must be used with caution.
As a rule of thumb, ammonia will usually drop by about the same fraction of water that is changed, so a 30% water change will reduce ammonia by 30%. However, if there is a source of ammonia in the aquarium, it may rapidly rise again. A 30% drop may not be noticed with many test kits. For example, it may be difficult to distinguish 1.2 ppm from 0.84 ppm total NH4-N using many kits, so do not panic if the ammonia level does not appear to drop, but also be realistic about how much you would expect it to drop from a water change on the order of 10-30%. In an ammonia "emergency" much larger water changes may be appropriate. Further information on water changes is detailed here.
 
Using airstones should help?

I am aware there is no pet shops around, but if you can try get "Tetra Marine Safe Start" I've used with will excellent resurlts!
 
Just make sure you read some of these products might cause your test kit to show false results
 
vatso said:
Full Story Here - Ammonia and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com


Treatments for Elevated Ammonia: Water Changes
Water changes can be a fine way to reduce toxic ammonia levels, especially in a small system such as a quarantine or hospital tank. The effective use of this method, however, demands that the new salt water does not contain significant ammonia. Because many types of artificial seawater do contain ammonia (see above), this method must be used with caution.
As a rule of thumb, ammonia will usually drop by about the same fraction of water that is changed, so a 30% water change will reduce ammonia by 30%. However, if there is a source of ammonia in the aquarium, it may rapidly rise again. A 30% drop may not be noticed with many test kits. For example, it may be difficult to distinguish 1.2 ppm from 0.84 ppm total NH4-N using many kits, so do not panic if the ammonia level does not appear to drop, but also be realistic about how much you would expect it to drop from a water change on the order of 10-30%. In an ammonia "emergency" much larger water changes may be appropriate. Further information on water changes is detailed here.
Click to expand...

Will read through this now. Thanks

lIghty said:
Using airstones should help?

I am aware there is no pet shops around, but if you can try get "Tetra Marine Safe Start" I've used with will excellent resurlts!
Click to expand...
First thing i did this morning was to put in 3 airstones. been running the entire day

vatso said:
Just make sure you read some of these products might cause your test kit to show false results
Click to expand...

I just read on the seachem am guard (removes ammonia rapid and safe) that it will affect test kits. So then maybe I should wait a few hours before testing again.

Also tested the ammonia level of my freshly mixed salt water = <0.01mg
 
OK the cause of the ammonia spike is the Epsom salts. You can google magnesium chloride and ammonia and it will explain all to you.

Salt mixes that have elevated magnesium readings when first mixed show ammonia readings. This ammonia is shortly reduced by aeration and allowing the PH to stabilize.


What you need to do is increase the DO and CO2 exchange this will dramatically reduce the Ammonia. Air stones will help but the best option is to have whatever power heads circulation pumps point upwards and make the surface of the tank look like hurricane Catrina. Do not do water changes as they will not help remove the ammonia. The addition of calcium should also be stopped. Also dont add bacteria as this will also cause complications. Also stop feedind till ammonia is 0

The Ammonia was chemically induced by the Epsom salts so it will not increase as there is nothing creating it anymore. If you have a very good aerobic filter with bio-ball etc the ammonia will reduce very quickly. If you do as i say the ammonia should be very much improved by tomorrow. Hope this helps sort out your issue. And in future when raising Mg do it slowly.

There are others but this one explains the magnesium ammonia a little.
http://www.seachem.com/Library/SeaGrams/Salt_Mixes.pdf
 
:thumbup: Great stuff. I am not a guru on chemical reactions but i do have a little understanding of what you say. But as you rightly say Epsom salts is dangerous in continued use and large volumes.
 
Nemos Janitor said:
OK the cause of the ammonia spike is the Epsom salts. You can google magnesium chloride and ammonia and it will explain all to you.

Salt mixes that have elevated magnesium readings when first mixed show ammonia readings. This ammonia is shortly reduced by aeration and allowing the PH to stabilize.


What you need to do is increase the DO and CO2 exchange this will dramatically reduce the Ammonia. Air stones will help but the best option is to have whatever power heads circulation pumps point upwards and make the surface of the tank look like hurricane Catrina. Do not do water changes as they will not help remove the ammonia. The addition of calcium should also be stopped. Also dont add bacteria as this will also cause complications. Also stop feedind till ammonia is 0

The Ammonia was chemically induced by the Epsom salts so it will not increase as there is nothing creating it anymore. If you have a very good aerobic filter with bio-ball etc the ammonia will reduce very quickly. If you do as i say the ammonia should be very much improved by tomorrow. Hope this helps sort out your issue. And in future when raising Mg do it slowly.

There are others but this one explains the magnesium ammonia a little.
http://www.seachem.com/Library/SeaGrams/Salt_Mixes.pdf
Click to expand...

Gr8 advice:thumbup:
 
Nemos Janitor said:
OK the cause of the ammonia spike is the Epsom salts. You can google magnesium chloride and ammonia and it will explain all to you.

Salt mixes that have elevated magnesium readings when first mixed show ammonia readings. This ammonia is shortly reduced by aeration and allowing the PH to stabilize.


What you need to do is increase the DO and CO2 exchange this will dramatically reduce the Ammonia. Air stones will help but the best option is to have whatever power heads circulation pumps point upwards and make the surface of the tank look like hurricane Catrina. Do not do water changes as they will not help remove the ammonia. The addition of calcium should also be stopped. Also dont add bacteria as this will also cause complications. Also stop feedind till ammonia is 0

The Ammonia was chemically induced by the Epsom salts so it will not increase as there is nothing creating it anymore. If you have a very good aerobic filter with bio-ball etc the ammonia will reduce very quickly. If you do as i say the ammonia should be very much improved by tomorrow. Hope this helps sort out your issue. And in future when raising Mg do it slowly.

There are others but this one explains the magnesium ammonia a little.
http://www.seachem.com/Library/SeaGrams/Salt_Mixes.pdf
Click to expand...

thanks for the advice. I don't think I have a aerobic filter? what do they look like?
I've just tested again, still 3mg. But I dosed amm guard this morning, and obviously its affecting the test kit. the fish looks better, not hiding anymore and swimming around. corals also looks a little bit better. Will see how it goes through the night
 
Lemar said:
thanks for the advice. I don't think I have a aerobic filter? what do they look like?

Aerobic filters are filters that are high in oxygen. They are the filters that break down wast to Nitrate (nitrogen cycle). Trickle filters, Bio Balls in a sump compartment etc. While DSB's and LR (Berlin type systems) do a great job in keeping nitrates down this is one of there downfalls as ammonia and nitrite traces are always measured in small qtys. They do not process waist as efficiently as an aerobic filter.

I've just tested again, still 3mg. But I dosed amm guard this morning, and obviously its affecting the test kit. the fish looks better, not hiding anymore and swimming around. corals also looks a little bit better. Will see how it goes through the night
Click to expand...

Good to hear fish looking more active. Hopefully not tooo active as this is also an indication of ammonia presence.

As i said previously. Get the surface of the tank really bubbling. It will release the Hydrogen and ammonia gasses and improve the DO to allow the aerobic bacteria to do their job.
 
Nemos Janitor said:
Good to hear fish looking more active. Hopefully not tooo active as this is also an indication of ammonia presence.

As i said previously. Get the surface of the tank really bubbling. It will release the Hydrogen and ammonia gasses and improve the DO to allow the aerobic bacteria to do their job.
Click to expand...

JDgr8 said:
Great advice Nemos Janitor!

@ Lemar. Good luck! Keep us posted!
Click to expand...

Well hurricane "catrina" is going strong. 3 powerheads facing upwards to the surface of the water and three airstones in tank. luckily no losses yet... I'm positive things will look better in the morning. That will teach me with the epson salt.
Next time I will go with the more expensive slow option
 
Ok so everything is still going ok this morning. no major changes from last night.
I still have the airstones in as well as powerheads facing towards the surface of the water.
the fish seem normal (all accounted for), but it seems like they are afraid of the bubbles of the airstones.

What I would like to know is, whether I should add the stablility for the next 6 days as advised, or should I just keep the airstones going and stop any additives?

Also my ammonia test still gives me a 3mg reading, and that is probably due to the seachem am guard I added yesterday?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom