So... I got Whitespot

RiaanP

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Last time I had whitespot was back in September 2011. Thats 3 years ago.

Just being lucky maybe, but all new fish do first go into a small 90L QT system. If they go through there with so signs then they can be promoted to my display system 6 weeks later. I had other issues in these 3 years. Lost a lot of fish in QT, but I would rather loose them there than have my display infected.

the 90L system got another 90L tank as sump, TS1 skimmer and lots and lots of bio-balls. It is a complete standalone system, even an ATU.


Anyway, I bought a Bannerfish and Lawnmower Blennie on the 5th October. On 18th I notices the Lawnmower flicking against the hides.

So Saturday I started by bucket method again. Also got a small filefish on Saturday, so he went into the buckets as well.

So tonight, 2 days later. 30 minutes after I fed them.
Siphoning via a 1micron filter 50% of the water that is in the old tub.


I forgot how difficult the water do siphon via the unit. Solution is to use an extra long pipe on the outside.
@Criggy try it.

Moving the fish over. Using my small glass box. I do not believe in taking the fish out of the water. They are already stressing, why use a net that could damage more scales or gills or fins, all places where more WS can attach? Or nasty bacteria? Here goes the banner


So simple and easy. Just put the box in the tank. and herd the fish in with piece of eggcrate that doubles up as a lid when fish is in. No chasing and exhausting the fish either.


Check the small filefish....

He is really tiny. A real Beauty.

Here they are all in the new bucket. adding a hideaway spot, new heater and pump.


Lastly, cover the tub with eggcrate, half with a towel over it to create a nice dark corner. Put 2 wooden supports over to carry the 20L drum new water. Open tap just a little bit, must take more than 30minutes to drain, Its like acclimatising the fish again, but in bigger terms.


Time taken.
30 minutes.

Is it really that a big schlep?
No...
and yes.
 
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Hmmm..definitely going to get a longer pipe tomorrow- i was thinking maybe a thinner pipe would also work?im on day 3 and all seems to be going well. Fish not eating too well though- they seem to be in a daze- well the finicky ones at least. My clowns done mind it and neither do the chromis. On the othr hand my regal tang is highly upset and spends all day on his side under a mug in the bucket used as a cave. Lawnmower blennie also in sulk mode. Tried garlic guard to entice feeding without much success. Dont want to feed frozens as it will cause a serious nitrate spike. Any ideas here @RiaanP?
Another thing i was thinking qbout is surely the airstone in the bucket throws the Ph off?
 
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No frozen food, nope... As you said, will cause more harm than good. Unless you can drain it really good and are sure all gets eaten.

Remember to use a new hideaway mug every time you move them.

Airstone and PH, did not think about that. As the pump is pointed upwards it does have a lot of surface movement anyway. Thinking about it I really doubt I need the airstone. It is there just so that the other side of the drum also got some uplift movement.

BTW, I use 40L water. 20L gets replaced every second day.
 
How does a longer pipe make siphoning go faster? Wouldn't height difference between tubs make a bigger difference?
 
Im also using 40L drum. Yeah using new mugs each time- wife loves it..haha! I was thinking for introduction of new fish from here on they must be quarantined and observed for 10 days correct? What would one do with inverts and orals as you wont see the signs of ws being carried- would they all require bucket method before introduction?
 
I changed the height to over 1m and i cannot get a positive siphon- i think this is due to air in the cannister filter. I was considering putting a non return valve on the drawing side? Thoughts?
 
What would one do with inverts and orals as you wont see the signs of ws being carried- would they all require bucket method before introduction?

Yes, the shells of snails and hermits van have WS cyst on it. Same as the liverock piece the coral is on. That is why I got a complete stand alone tank. New corals can go in there for 6 weeks. And they will be free. If you got flatworm or other pests on the new coral, its easier to see, treat and contain them there, than having the flatworms spread to other healthy corals.
 
Do you have lighting over your coral quarantine tank? I got ws in my system from either a turbo snail or a cleaner shrimp that were added on the same day without quarantine- my regal started scratching the following day and before not too long he had spots all over. Have been managing it well with vitamins but would rather get rid of it all together.
 
How does a longer pipe make siphoning go faster?
Because with longer pipe, you can get more air out that is in the canister. Else you end up with salt water in your mouth. Lifting 40L bucket higher is not an option either for me.
 
Do you have lighting over your coral quarantine tank?
yes.
4 *39W T5.
OK, old tubes, helps with the algae growth. That you do need to get a lawnmower blennie. Also algae helps with the pods population, for that mandarin that I want.
 
40L bucket on day 1

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Oky I also got ws on my newly bought regal tang. I bought 2 40l containers, 2 heaters, 2 airstones, and a micron filter. After you caught the fish in the box do you throw the water in with him in the new bucket?
 
And then you replace 50% of the water with new water or can you use water from you're main tank?
 
It was one day in my main tank, I was stupid I didn't had any water ready in my qt so I put him in my main tank till I had enough ro water so that I can fill my qt. But yes it was one day in my main display
 
I monitored them closely and the never had any signs of whitespot. I got 2 platinum clowns, one yellow anthias, lawnmower blenny and one purple fish I don't know his name
 
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