My 1ft - 50L QT system, fully automated and DIY

dallasg

Controversial Reefer, but knowledgeable!
Moderator
Joined
14 Dec 2008
Posts
16,900
Reaction score
665
Location
Sandton
oki so i have been thinking of how best to QT new fish at the least cost, hastle and space.
So the goal is to have your new fish live in a sterile environment for 2 weeks until he is eating and healthy. so my goal was to make a system that would be self sustaining and yet viable and work without jeopardising the health of the fish.

So as tradition has it, one sets up a tank with a heater, skimmer and small airdriven bio-filter, then one medicates the fish and does a WC every second day. Now due to the small filter etc one would have to feed sparingly etc.

so i thought of this idea, which re-uses the salt-water, stays running, and makes it easier to QT fish.

the 1ft tank has a heater, hangon skimmer and air driven filterfloss filter with some bio-balls in it, i then have 2 x 25L drums positioned one above the tank and one below, with the tank having a single overflow going into the bottom drum. i then fill the top bucket with ASW and start dripping it at about 1ml per minute, the tank then overflows and drains into the bottom bucket over a period of a day or so, once finished, i then swap buckets around.

now this performs a constant waterchange keeping NH4 and NO2 minimal and fish less stressed, i then take the water from the bottom and treat it with seachem prime, carbon, and every other chemical that i think will clear the water and aerate and keep the water moving. i keep repeating the cycle until fish is in DT.

now when the QT is not being used i add a small pump to the bottom drum and pump to the top drum with the valve open completely so the water just cycles. there is also a ATU to keep water at 1024


any commets or suggestions
 
Hi dallasg

That is inventive! I like the way you think. Is this design for holding first for two weeks before transfer to a treatment tank for a quarantine period?

Regards

David
 
Fantastic idea Dallas! Do you think we might be able to incorporate this idea into the little setup that I am contemplating for my QT/Frag tank?

I seriously need to get to your side of the world to talk about this. How about Wednesday, after voting?
 
You think it will be cheaper than just to make new salt water? Not only is it the cost of all the chemicals, but also the fact that you are not really removing water borne diseases / parasites. If you just loop this water you keep it in the tank. But heck, if its an experiment then go for it.
 
the 1ft tank has a heater, hangon skimmer and air driven filterfloss filter with some bio-balls in it, i then have 2 x 25L drums positioned one above the tank and one below, with the tank having a single overflow going into the bottom drum. i then fill the top bucket with ASW and start dripping it at about 1ml per minute, the tank then overflows and drains into the bottom bucket over a period of a day or so, once finished, i then swap buckets around.

So a one way system, until you get home and swap the buckets.

also a ATU to keep water at 1024
so how is the ATU going to work?

Water drain all day long from top drum. Bottom drum is empty in the morning, full when you return. So where will the ATU censors be?
If it was looping, while not in use as you said, then I can understand an ATU working. But not in the two weeks (or more) while you are quarantining anything.
 
Hi dallasg

That is inventive! I like the way you think. Is this design for holding first for two weeks before transfer to a treatment tank for a quarantine period?

Regards

David
It will be for QT new fish and treating fish if I need too. Also might rent out the services if needed :)
 
Fantastic idea Dallas! Do you think we might be able to incorporate this idea into the little setup that I am contemplating for my QT/Frag tank?

I seriously need to get to your side of the world to talk about this. How about Wednesday, after voting?

Sure we could, gimme a shout
 
You think it will be cheaper than just to make new salt water? Not only is it the cost of all the chemicals, but also the fact that you are not really removing water borne diseases / parasites. If you just loop this water you keep it in the tank. But heck, if its an experiment then go for it.

I see what u mean, but I got the stuff as I use most of it already, and the salt I use is 3 parts, 2 bottles of additives etc and I use normal sodium chloride, so my salt cost is like 60c a litre, its a new thing from USA. And I forgot to mention I filter through milk socks which can remove ich etc from water
 
So a one way system, until you get home and swap the buckets.
Yes, but buckets last more than a day, so plenty of time
so how is the ATU going to work?

Water drain all day long from top drum. Bottom drum is empty in the morning, full when you return. So where will the ATU censors be?
If it was looping, while not in use as you said, then I can understand an ATU working. But not in the two weeks (or more) while you are quarantining anything.
My atu is a hospital drip kit, so I drip 1L of RO through out the say to compensate, I have 2L or 3L bags as well if needed, and the fish room temp is regulated. I then make water 1024 when I swap drums
 
So the goal is to have your new fish live in a sterile environment for 2 weeks until he is eating and healthy
That's fine, BUT... if you want to get the full benefit of quarantining then you would have to keep it up for at least one month, as many disease organisms can take that long before becoming "visible".

Perhaps David Vaughan can comment, but in my experience one's chance of being successful with keeping out the nasties increases with the time that the fish, corals, etc are kept in quarantine. I would say that you reduce the risk of infecting your display tank by roughly 70% if Q'ed for 2 weeks, 85% if Q'ed for 3 weeks, and 95% if Q'ed for 4 weeks.
 
Last edited:
yip agree, longer QT period is needed. I lost fish in quarantine on 28 days due to whitespot. Now, I use another quarantine method - bucket method for 12 days, than quarantine tank for a month.
 
Amalick got me in the habit of his 6 week rule where all live stock get's QT for 6 weeks to be really sure it's safe & if it needs treatment it stays longer. I use a little 40L with the filter at the back which has a little reef octopus nano skimmer & live rock.
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone

Yes I was wondering whether the two weeks was the actual quarantine period or just a holding period prior to a full quarantine time. 30 days should be a minimum time for quarantine. Two weeks will be too short.

Regarding Cryptocaryon irritans and 28 days. Be cautious here too. This little beastie responds to its captive ecology so the 28 days is never fixed. This too is complicated by the fact that there are different strains of C. irritans which respond differently to different environmental factors such as temperature. Always keep this in mind. I have known some C. irritans to remain dormant for 72 days before releasing theronts! The 30 days quarantine period is designed to prevent the introduction of these parasites into your main tank by reducing as much of the risk as possible but do remember that no quarantine period is fool proof, rather the management of the potential risk.

have a super week ahead.

Regards

David
 
i will aim for 4 weeks, this time will be used to get fish eating etc..
what i will do is rethink the setup, or set it up as automated as possible.
 
maybe i need to create a holding tank for new inmates that has all the filterting etc, maybe a nano, then have a treatment system as well.

i think that sounds like a better idea
 
Howdy, well it worked but i moved and will set things up in the new year
 
Back
Top Bottom