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Medium Tanks Setups with a total system volume of between 130 litres and 500 litres (35 to 130 gallons).

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Old 04-03-2012   #41
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Guys, the tanks was running since yesterday 12pm and there are plenty purple corilline growing even on the bleak LR in the middle.
Will post some picks now.

I also did measurements
NH4 - <0.25
PH - 7.7
NO2 (nitrate) - 0

Any comments plz

Thanks skippie
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Old 04-03-2012   #42
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Devesh
My sand bed is about 10 cm ave Do you think 2cm is a issue?
Please give me your comment

Thanks
Yes, it must be 12-15cm. You also need to prevent the water from disturbing the sand like that, cause you don't want oxygen rich water to reach the bottom layers of the DSB as it will make it ineffective. You can do this to prevent it - had it on my old sump













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Some tips for newbies:
1.Evaporation top-ups are done with RO water only, not saltwater
2.Please don't keep tangs in a nano - they need lots of swimming space
3.Anemones need mature tanks to thrive and clown fish don't need anemones to survive
4. "Dilution is the solution to polution" - Anthony Calfo
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Old 04-03-2012   #43
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Thanks tobes
I will make the correction immediately
Skippie
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Old 04-03-2012   #44
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Ok corrections done
Will post some pics in 30 min
Thanks again
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Old 04-03-2012   #45
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Default Verry nice Skippie
Hey there buddy.

Well i goto set the record straight.
Skippie did say i gave him the tank but he also did pay me R2000 for it.
But ja i must say it was a good price with everything he got with it.

So lets get to the tank PPL.
Skippie i must say again, very nice man.
Love all the mods you did. I can see your starting to think like a real marine junkie like all of us on MASA.

Just wane give you some congrats and some tips maybe:

1) Great job on the Unions you put on the back of the tank plumbing.
Now you can loosen it any time you want to.

2) The stand mod for the sump and for the plumbing and soft pipes used for plumbing. Nice

3) Maybe see if you can rather put the heaters into the LR or DSB part of the tank.
Cos remember if the water level drops too for some or other reason the heaters wont be completely under water. Or to solve this add a auto top up unit.
But be careful with ATU it can also cause a problem if it malfunctions and floods the system with RO . Thats why i dont have one yet, and when i get one on my new tank im gona add 2 float switches just for in case

4) I ran that tank with a TS2. IMHO if i would have to start with that tank again i wouldn't use anything smaller that a TS2 but if i got the cash ill go for the TS3.
Its true what Crispen said you have to look at what your going to add in the future.
If your thinking SPS ill say TS3 min. And also like eraticC said about the LR in the skimmer chamber. (Now i know why my ST2 pump impeller magnet looks so bad. OOPS)

5) Nice Idea frome tobes there with the two peaces of PVC pipe.

6) Remember that the cycle for a tank to be LS save is one month.
Unfortunately in this hobby time is the key.
You can do some dosing of bacteria like we spoke on the phone but the best is just to wait it out ill say. This is your first tank so give it time, its worth it.
And remember over stocking a tank or adding too many LS at a time can crash the system, then its back to stage one on your tank and budget.

7) While you have time on your hands look at skimmers and lights.
Lights you will have to decide if your going for T5`s, MH `s or LED`s.
All depends what your gona host in the tank.
*Fish only the T5`s ok.
*Fish and coral then lots of T5`s also ok
*Fish and coral then MH `s can also work but then you must have a chiller
*Fish and coral then LED`s also great but it is expensive. But at least they don't heat up the water like MH `s

In the end of the day its all about, Nice lighting for fish and coral, budget, electricity bill ohja, did i say budget. hehe

8) Keep up the good work. Love what you've done to the tank ext.
And remember to always ask if your not sure or if you need info.


Lastly, a few thing that's been stuck with me since ive started this hobby:
*Research, Research, & Research
*The more you've got your hands in the tank the more problems you might have
*Marines takes time
*Practice makes, mmm what the hell just give it time.
*Money can buy you great equipment but cant give you the fun and satisfaction of a DIY project, even if it does go wrong.
*Everyone has great ideas on MASA
*If you dont know, ask MASA
*Budget on marines mmm, ag just look at the pretty nemo mommy


Ok ok i can go on the whole day.
Just one more thing.

Never tell the wife what you paid for the new LS, she does not need to know.
And if you have to fetch LS from the LFS , go and pay half of the amount, then give your wife the rest on the cash and ask her nicely to go pick up some new LS for the tank.

Good luck Skippie.
Nice man, nice

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Old 04-03-2012   #46
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And this is the pics I promised



And


The sump with mod

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Old 04-03-2012   #47
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Nice man.

Keep up the good work and enjoy the hobby.
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Old 05-03-2012   #48
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Put all the live rock, or most of it in the display when the skimmer comes. Instead of looking at TS3 or TS4, check out the Reef Octopus and JNS skimmers. You might find a better skimmer for the same amount or slightly more.
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Old 06-03-2012   #49
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Put all the live rock, or most of it in the display when the skimmer comes. Instead of looking at TS3 or TS4, check out the Reef Octopus and JNS skimmers. You might find a better skimmer for the same amount or slightly more.
Will Do Thanks Tobes
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Old 06-03-2012   #50
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It may be stupid ...but i am so excited about the purple and green corriline algea growing on the rocks.. Here is some pic's





and the baby rock...still bleak ...



and the 2 rocks on the right hand side



There are more in my album
Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Thanks
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Old 13-03-2012   #51
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Coming along nice Skippie

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Old 18-03-2012   #52
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Coming along nice Skippie
Thanks Moolis, will come and visit soon
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Old 18-03-2012   #53
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Hey All,
Update time,

I raised the DSB to 13cm by adding sand in small amounts slowly, didn't want to disturb the lower part.

Also installed some more plugs on the left side of the sump for the skimmer arriving this week.

Tanks been running for 2weeks now and I measured just now. Stats as follows
Ph 8.0
No2 . * *0.0
Nh4<0.25
Salinity. 1.023
temp 26

I see some crawlies in the display tanks, small but noticeable.

I started to do a fish list and will post it soon for comments.

Thanks
Skippie
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Old 18-03-2012   #54
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Originally Posted by Skippie View Post
Hey All,
Update time,

I raised the DSB to 13cm by adding sand in small amounts slowly, didn't want to disturb the lower part.

Also installed some more plugs on the left side of the sump for the skimmer arriving this week.

Tanks been running for 2weeks now and I measured just now. Stats as follows
Ph 8.0
No2 . * *0.0
Nh4<0.25
Salinity. 1.023
temp 26

I see some crawlies in the display tanks, small but noticeable.

I started to do a fish list and will post it soon for comments.

Thanks
Skippie
Nice. Keep us posted
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Old 19-03-2012   #55
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Hi all.
My tank has been cycling for 2 weeks now and all the readings looks fine. If it stay's this way I think it will be save to add LS in 2 weeks.
I have been reading and compiling my wish list of LS that I would like to host.
I know this may be a huge list but I kept in mind that I will not be able to get everything on the list so here goes.

<><>Fish: <><>
Genus: Gramma
Gramma melacara *,Blackcap Basslet

Antennariidae striatus *,Hairy frogfish

Chelmon rostratus.**'butterflyfish

Commen clown

Priolepis nocturnus (Circus goby)

Acanthurus achilles. *, *Achilles tang
Paracanthurus hepatus *,Regal Tang

Zanclus cornutus , *Moorish Idol

Rhinecanthus aculeatus *, *Blackbar, Picasso trigger

Labroides phthirophagus , *Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse
Larabicus quadrilineatus ,*Red Sea cleaner wrasse
Macropharyngodon meleagris ,*Black spotted leopard wrasse
*
GREEN MANDARIN FISH,*Synchiropus Splendidus

<><>Invertebrates<><>
Tridacna crocea , *(Crocus clams)

Ovula ovum ,*Flamingo Tongue Snail
Primovula bellica ,*Allied dendronepthya cowrie

Limulus polyphemus, *Horseshoe Crab
Lybia tesselata , *Pom-pom crab

Calcinus elegans,*Electric Blue hermit

<><>Soft coral><><
Sinularia, Lobophytum, and Sarcophyton (Leather corals)
Much room coral


So for start of I would like to get
Mandarin (green)
Tang (emperor)
Cleaner wrasse
Cleaner shrimp
Leather coral
Mushroom coral.

There are lots more I want but for a start this will be a dream come true for me.
Please give comments and opinions, remember I want to do this right and enyou my little paradise.

Thanks
Skippie
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Old 21-03-2012   #56
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Update
I placed the skimmer in the sump and moved the LR to the display tanks. Skimmer was running fine but I didn'n like the LR in the display tank.
Moonlis agreed to exchange the sump LR for display LR. Big up for Moolis, thanks a mill.

I packed the LR and this is the result.


Also I saw Herbie and decided to take him. It was love at first sight. Acclimatized him for a hour and half, dosed the tanks with stability and.......
He has not stopped eating my algae. Guess its a good sign.

MASA Please meet Herbie.


Thanks
Skippie





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Old 21-03-2012   #57
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So for start of I would like to get
Mandarin (green)
Tang (emperor)
Cleaner wrasse
Cleaner shrimp
Leather coral
Mushroom coral.
Just off the top of my head...Mandarin and Cleaner Wrasse....

Mandarin....
Quote:
Mandarin fish are one of the most commonly sold fish, yet they are unfortunately one of the most likely to perish in the average reef tank. The reason for this is their very finicky feeding habits. Many mandarins will only eat live amphipods and copepods (pods) which are found in sufficient numbers only in larger and well established reef tanks. The minimum tank requirement is generally stated as 55 gallon with 50lbs or more of live rock. This is based on feeding requirements and not space requirements as the Mandarin is a very slow, docile fish. Perhaps more important than tank size is how heavily fed and nutrient rich a tank is, since this type of tank will generally support a higher pod population than tanks run under more lean conditions.
MandarinFish
You need a well established Tank for the Mandarin...unless you are one of the lucky few that gets one that eats alternate foods such as frozen foods...


Cleaner Wrasse....
Quote:
Because the Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse's diet is mainly derived from its symbiotic relationship with other fish by eating parasites, this Wrasse does not do well in captivity. It is extremely difficult to get this fish to eat any other types of foods, and once the parasite food population is gone it results in poor health, and most likely death for the Wrasse.This fish is not recommended for an aquarium. It is extremely difficult to get it to adapt to tank fed foods.
Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse Facts, Information, photos and pictures - Facts, Information, photos and pictures of the Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse
Quote:
Further, these species have not been kept for any length of time in captivity, most dying within a few days to weeks due to a lack of nutritive interaction with host fishes. I have heard stories and seen the endemic Hawaiian cleaner, Labroides phthirophagus accepting dry prepared, freeze-dried, fresh and live foods, still only to waste away and die.
Labroides


Four Line Cleaner Wrasse...
Quote:
One Four Line Cleaner Wrasse should be kept per tank in a 30 gallon or larger community aquarium. It should be housed with other peaceful species, but may become aggressive towards small, more docile species and peaceful wrasses. Four Line Cleaner Wrasse should have some live rock available for use as shelter and for food. As a juvenile, it will eat parasites from placid tank mates. Adults feed almost entirely on polyps of stony corals. This is one of the reasons this is such a hard species to keep in an aquarium. Four Line Cleaner Wrasse is a very fragile fish and should only be cared for by a very experienced aquarist.
DreamAquatic.com - Four Line Cleaner Wrasse - Larabicus quadrilineatus - Buy Cheap Red Sea Cleaner Wrasse Now and Save!


Leopard Wrasse....
Quote:
Once adjusted to aquarium life the Leopard Wrasse, Blackspotted Wrasse or Guinea Fowl Wrasse is a wonderful peaceful community fish that can even be housed with others of the same genus. This is also one of the few wrasses that can be kept with its own species. In both cases however, they are harmonious as long the mix is all females with just one male.
Quote:
Maintenance difficulty: Due to their specialized eating habits and nature, the Leopard Wrasse, Blackspotted Wrasse, or Guinea Fowl Wrasse should only be attempted by advanced aquarists as they are very difficult to keep. The key to successfully keeping this wrasse is ultimately a well established reef tank, with lots of food (micro-crustaceans) flourishing in the environment. Do not put with other fish that will compete for food. Also, they tend not to tolerate copper. The Leopard Wrasse, Blackspotted Wrasse, or Guinea Fowl Wrasse are carnivorous. In the wild they mostly eat small invertebrates such as foraminiferans (small shelled protozoa) and snails, which they pick from the reef with their canine teeth, then use their pharyngeal teeth to pulverize. They also eat small amounts of copepods and amphipods.
Provide your new wrasse with live foods such as feeder shrimp and live black worms. Slowly introduce them to mussel meat, mysis, krill and plankton. Feed several times a day. Try to gut load the live foods with vitamin preparations for marine fish, and soak prepared foods in the vitamins. An ongoing source of natural prey can be supplied with a productive refugium as well.
Leopard Wrasse, Macropharyngodon meleagris, Blackspotted Wrasse, Guinea Fowl Wrasse

Moorish Idol...
Quote:
It is compatible with most fish and larger invertebrates, but should not be kept with any polyps or corals, which it will eat. Small invertebrates may be threatened as well.

The Moorish Idol is a very difficult fish to feed. Live rock with large amounts of algae and sponges on which it can feed will help it acclimate. Then offer a varied diet of finely chopped meaty items, mysis shrimp, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, Spirulina, and algae. It should be fed several times a day. Perhaps the most graceful of all marine fish, for many hobbyists, it is also one of the most difficult fish to keep because it is so difficult to feed. For all but the most expert hobbyist, it is better admired in the ocean or in a public aquarium rather than in a home tank.
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Moorish Idol

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Old 21-03-2012   #58
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Marine Compatability Chart


Basslet....
Quote:
Semi-aggressive/Aggressive – a large male will defend his cave with great fervor even against larger belligerent tankmates. Should be one of the last fish added to tank. Avoid smaller delicate shrimp as they may be eaten.
Blackcap Gramma – Gramma melacara
Quote:
They are known jumpers like most other basslets and a hood or lid of some sort should be in place on their tank. The Black Cap Basslet is generally very peaceful with other tank inhabitants, but they will guard their favorite cave or swimming area; if more than one specimen is desired it's recommended to add them at the same time and to only do so in larger aquariums as they can be somewhat aggressive to their own species.
Black Cap Basslet,*Gramma melacara*Species Profile, Hobbyist Guide, Care Instructions, Black Cap Basslet care, Feeding and more.**::**Aquarium Domain.com

Hairy Frogfish...
Quote:
The frogfish slowly prepares for the surprise attack on the prey by stalking it or just adjusting its mouth in anticipation. The prey is actually caught via the sudden opening of the jaws which increases the mouth size up to 12 times, pulling in the prey along with water in just six milliseconds. This water flows out through the gills while the prey is swallowed and the esophagus is closed with a specially adapted muscle to keep the victim contained. Frogfish can also expand their stomachs to swallow animals up to twice their own size!

http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/fish/Galler...dFrogfish.html

Circus Goby....
Quote:
It is a great addition to the reef aquarium and will spend most of its time resting and swimming within the rock work. It is non-aggressive towards other fish and will not bother invertebrates in the tank.
The Black Barred Convict Goby is easy to feed and its diet consists of most marine foods. Prepared foods such as vitamin enriched mysis shrimp and brine shrimp should be fed on a regular basis.
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Black Barred Convict Goby

Butterfly Fish...
Quote:
Although commonly available, this fish has a very high death rate in captivity. This fish is very delicate and careful selection is critical. They are very sensitive to disease and poor conditions. Even if they are eating, many Chelmon rostratus die mysteriously before they reach the six month mark.
Reefkeeping Magazine - Fish Profile-

Achilles Tang....
Quote:
A 180 gallon aquarium or larger is necessary to provide plenty of swimming room,and these fishes require strong water flow as they are normally found in surge zones. It is aggressive towards other Tangs and Surgeonfish, but peaceful with other fish. Although Tangs will eat meaty foods along with the other fish in the aquarium, it is important that they are offered plenty of marine based seaweed and algae.
Regal Tang...
Quote:
Feeds on algae and other vegetable matter. Pacific Blue Tang requires a 125 gallon or larger aquarium with a number of hiding places and plenty of room to swim. It is tolerant of other tangs, but can occasionally be aggressive towards other Acanthurus species. It is more susceptible to head and lateral line erosion, fin erosion, ich and other skin parasites than many other fish. While not common, Paracanthurus hepatus will occasionally be collected with flukes.
FishProfiles.com - Paracanthurus hepatus

Picasso Triggerfish...
Quote:
This triggerfish is one of the more easy going of the trigger fishes but it can still become dangerous in a tank full of smaller aquarium fish and invertebrates. You will want to provide a larger tank (75 gallon minimum) with plenty of hiding places to help reduce the aggressiveness that may well up inside this fish if it feels threatened. They can become very territorial if kept in a tank that is too small. Keep them in a larger tank with some larger tank mates and it should co-exist peacefully.
The Picasso triggers are susceptible to most saltwater fish disease and respond well to most of the standard medicines and treatments. Quarantine any new arrivals for a period of 2 - 3 weeks before introducing them into your main tank.
One last note, be careful when placing your hand in a tank with Triggerfish. They have a mouth full of teeth and may bite if they feel threatened.
Picasso Triggerfish - Rhinecanthus aculeatus

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Old 21-03-2012   #59
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Did you come across these when you done you'r selection....I thought I'll share...some "useless info"......I want them...

This is also a beautiful Goby...
Dracula Goby...Stonogobiops dracula


Quote:
Another characteristic the Dracula Goby share with other Shrimp Gobies, is that the Dracula Goby will also pair with pistol shrimp. Most seem to prefer Alpheus randalli as their burrowmate. However, to best promote this symbiotic relationship, both the Dracula Goby and its hopeful pistol shrimp counterpart should be introduced into the aquarium at the same time. Though peaceful, the Dracula Goby will sometimes spar with similar species, or more aggressive fish of similar size to defend its territory. However, most live peacefully with almost any non-predatory fish in a suitable sized aquarium of at least 20 gallons.
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Dracula Goby

And a impressive Blenny...so different....
Hancock Barnacle Blenny...Acanthemblemaria hancocki ...

Quote:
The Barnacle Blenny is a hardy aquarium species. It should be housed with peaceful tankmates in an aquarium with numerous hiding places, preferably rocks with holes and tunnels. More than one Barnacle Blenny can be housed per aquarium.
Barnacle Blenny

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Last edited by belindamotion; 21-03-2012 at 22:38 PM.
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Old 22-03-2012   #60
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Thanks Belinda
It definitely back to the drawing board for me.

On which site do you use for your research?
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