Tank Relocation Thread

RocketRooster

RocketRooster

Joined
11 Dec 2012
Posts
1,356
Reaction score
3
Location
Alberton
Hi gang,

I think it will be a great idea to have a sticky thread regarding the process and pitfalls of relocating a tank. Especially if the tank is stocked, how to deal with catching and transporting fish and livestock, and how to prepare for the arrival of the hardware.

Thanks!
Riaan
 
RocketRooster said:
Especially if the tank is stocked, how to deal with catching and transporting fish and livestock, and how to prepare for the arrival of the hardware.
Click to expand...

If you want to learn come over on saturday ;)
For me, you need to deal with what ever comes up an there are always unforseen things that happen.
 
I've seen a few threads pop up over time wrt this, but never a informative read with all things one should prepare for and what one can expect...

A sticky bout this topic will be nice...
 
I tried doing a search but the topic is too vague in the context of the whole forum to give any definite results.
 
Moving/relocating a tank can be stressful. The key to it is to be well planned and have a knowledgeable, and willing team helping. A bakkie is an essential vehicle to have. Always be prepared for the worst possible scenario.
Ideally, you need to have a temporary tank/buckets set up to house livestock while the tank is moved and set up at its new home. A bucket with an airstone is not good enough, the temp house must be able to keep livestock happy for a few days/weeks should something really bad go wrong during the move like a tank crack etc. This also allows time to properly clean the tank, redo plumbing, make sure new location is level etc.
When moving the tank, make sure its completely empty. "Its only a bit of substrate and water, im sure we can pick it up" never ends well. NEVER EVER EVER move a tank that still has livestock in. No matter how slowly you drive or how flat you think the road is, even the slightest bump can topple rocks and potentially kill livestock.
When refilling, make sure you have spare water around. You can use the old tank water, but also use clean water (remember theres no such thing as mature/cycled water), as picking up rocks/substrate will release alot of detritus. Have plenty of water conditioners on hand (Special Blend works well) and monitor the parameters closely the next few days after adding the livestock.
And youll needs towels, lots of towels.
 
What's niteout?

ETA: Durr, I assume it's a nitrate remover after thinking about it for an extended, though unspecified, amount of time :p
 
Last edited:
RocketRooster said:
What's niteout?
Click to expand...

Niteout
Specially Formulated for Rapid Ammonia and Nitrite Reduction

Decreases Ammonia & Nitrite Toxicity
For SALT & FRESH WATER
Contains: Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrobactor
MICROBE-LIFT/Nite-Out II is designed specifically for aquarium waters that contain marine life. Its highly-specialized microbial consortium of nitrifying cultures are specially formulated to eliminate ammonia via a natural biological process termed nitrification. The cultures contain in MICROBE-LIFT/Nite-Out II will establish, promote or stabilize and maintain nitrification in aquarium waters, eliminating the toxic effect of ammonia. MICROBE-LIFT/Nite-Out II liquid nitrifying bacteria contains select strains of Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrobacter. Nitrosomonas oxidize ammonia to nitrite and Nitrobacter and Nitrospira oxidize nitrite to nitrate.
MICROBE-LIFT/Nite-Out II comprises select microorganisms that are autotrophic - able to use carbon dioxide as the sole source of carbon - and are relatively slow growing, requiring specific conditions for optimum growth with typical cell divisions rates from 8 to 16 hours. Their performance and rate growth is impacted by the environmental parameters required for nitrification.
Click to expand...
 
the secret is never to panic, when things go wrong, take a step back

issues to keep an eye out for
1. ammonia - the un-invited guest, keep seachem prime or safe handy, or even prodibio stop ammo
2. temp - need to keep temp stable, stops the fish stressing and keeps PH from shifting to much, also helps keep dissolved oxygen in the water
3. Stability or Special Blend to keep water in check, before , during and after. also a good idea to use prodibio travel safe or seachem stressgaurd
4. plan - dont waste time
5. dont worry about aqua-scaping, first goal is livestock preservation, add rock and corals and fish so they all fit and let them adjust for a few days after to keep stress levels down
6. Make sure target tank water is right temp, ph and salinity
7. keep lighting to the minimum, no need to watch your stock stress, look at them before you move
8. have about 30% spare salt water
9. if you cant get sump running, or leaks, place heater and skimmer in tank as temp solution, use egg crate to protect livestock from heater and pump
10. keep hyrdogen peroxide handy, good for adding O2 to the water if needed, 1ml per 100L
11. start on a friday eve or early sat morning, leaves time for emergencies and shops
12. get friends/reefers to help, less stress for you
13. make sure food and drink for helpers :)

these are a list of issues i have come across over the years, its not as stressful as it sounds
 
Thanks Dallas. Any info on how to transport live rock with corals attached, so they don't get crushed?
 
yip place them in bags/buckets and pad with poly

also depending on how they are mounted, we remove them, and rescape later
 
Buying a new tank and moving it to your house is the same as what other guys have to do when the move to another house.

First thing. Anything over 200L is a full day job. No matter what.

Have at least 20% extra newly mixed salt water available at the destination.

Biggest problem is temperature drop. Actually more the difference in temperature drop. Keeping fish in cooler boxes and the live rock and rest of the water in big drums will result in a difference between the two types of containers.

I like to put the biggest pieces of live rock in the container with the fish. BUT, you must be sure that the rock cannot move, else you got sushi. The fish stress out a hell of a lot less. Move the rock, catch the fish. Put in an airstone, and almost close the lid. Place the cooler out of the way, but not where any sunlight can fall on it (else you cook your fish). Too many fish, rather use more cooler boxes.

Keep most of the water as possible. Leave the substrate in the display covered by about 20mm water.

Siphon the water out of the sump, the skimmer and return chambers can be emptied. The DSB drained to 10mm above the sand. Depending on system, then move the DSB to your bakkie or trailer. Fill it up again and put the return pump back on with water going to first chamber. Make sure the bakkie or trailer is in the shade. Load all the other things, like the cooler boxes, but this time close them properly. When all is loaded, believe me, this will be after another hour, switch off the return pump.

First thing at destination, switch on return pump. Off load everything, especially the fish as quick as possible. Get them into the shade or into the house. Place them out of the way, open up and replace airstones.

Drain the DSB again, move tank stand sump. Fill DSB. Put return pump on again flowing back to first chamber.

Fill display about 30%. Place heaters in display and get it up to the same level as the cooler boxes the fish are in. When same level, move some heaters to the sump. Place the Live rock in display, move corals. And lastly place fish in bags with water from cooler boxes. Hang the bags with clothing pegs inside the sump so that they can start to acclimatize. Rest of the water in cooler boxes must be emptied into display. Fill up display until overflow can be switched on. Move return to flow to display and get all circulation going. Heaters would still be 100% busy. Using extra heaters for the move would help a lot.

When fish are acclimatized, release them into the display.

Have a beer. Or two...

Next day do a 10% water change.

Have another beer
 
Misses one part, With sump temporary running on the back of the bakkie while you load all the other things. Before setting off onto the sunset, drain the sump again. Else it will just spill. And less stress on the glass. Other side, get the sump filled again first. Then ofload everything, Drain it again when you get to move it.

Best is actually to have two vehicles. One for tank, one for sump.
 
i keep the sump drained, and use that refill as a water change, rather use the chance to clean the sump properly
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom