Chillers

Kanga

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Aquarium Chillers

Chillers are used to keep an aquarium's temperature below ambient temperature.
Chillers usually have a built in temperature controller and switch on when they detect the temperature of the water is higher than what you have set it to.
They are basically a compressor (makes one side cold and the other really hot) and a radiator (cools down the hot side of the compressor by having a fan blow over metal fins).
Chillers need to be well ventilated as they blow out a lot of hot air and function better with cold air. Because of this if you have them with the tank in an unventilated room the room can get extremely hot.

Size
In South Africa we usually need to use a chiller rated for slightly more than our tank size as they are mostly designed for slightly cooler environments.

Maintenance
The radiator and fan should occasionally be cleaned. If they have been running for a few years they may need to be regassed by an aircon technician.

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Maybe just add that it is crucial one uses a shared thermometer for controlling the chiller and heater, as otherwise they might come on simultaneously and run continuously, wasting electricity. The actual temperature shown on the chiller/heater is not necessarily accurate, so it will not help if you just set each to not overlap.
 
That would be ideal, however not really possible to do without serious electrical / electronics knowledge, its not just a case of turning the chiller on and off, there has to be a certain amount of hysteresis on the controls as well as a timing function, this is to stop the chiller from kicking on and off every 2 minutes, and burning the compressor.

Yes it can be done, but best to use a suitable type controller.
 
Sure, but many good chillers have this built in, or you can use an Aquatronica/other controller system.
 
Chiller control

Maybe just add that it is crucial one uses a shared thermometer for controlling the chiller and heater, as otherwise they might come on simultaneously and run continuously, wasting electricity. The actual temperature shown on the chiller/heater is not necessarily accurate, so it will not help if you just set each to not overlap.

If I may give some very good advice here; Please stay away from the chillers that cools and heats up water at the same time. Sean's old tank was almost wiped out by a faulty thermostat. Personally I would go for something with a separate control mechanism for heating and cooling. It might cost you a higher escom account but your coral will still be ok by the time you realize you have a problem.
Rather add a extra digital control device that should not cost more than 1k and be sure you protect the expensive livestock rather than a Escom account. That is my view and I am older than 50 years so take it as you see it.:p
 
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My AquaLogic 1/4 HP TLC-3 chiller has a separate control unit where you plug your heaters in and the other end goes to the chiller. However I am using the Apex controller to do the actual controlling.
 
Here is a picture of the controller in my chiller. I agree with herkie though, do not trust any controller. However AFAIK Aqua Logic makes some of the best equipment out there so this one is cool.

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chillers are really expensive though... fans are ok if u dont have like 7k to fork out :p .. just have to top up alot
 
Problem is that fans only chill so much. I have one over my tank - it helped drop the temperature by 1-2C. However if it really gets hot in here it does not stand a chance to keep the tank under 27C.
 
no doubt that the chiller is better... but what could a guy do on a budget? now this is interesting ;)
 
haha :) ... or pour beer into the DT.. that should cool them down :p
 
A good chiller is extremely useful when you have MH lights, especially in the summer months. Also great in heating mode when your heaters can't keep up in the winter months.
However, if you're on a tight budget, use flourescents and minimal MH placed high above the tank. I used a cheap computer style fan to lightly blow across water surface when my chiller was disconnected.
Having said that, I've experienced my tank going up to 29 degrees w.o. any apparent ill effects. But then a high flow rate and low stocking densities might help as the oxygen content of the water is much lower.:sweatdrop:
 
Other Alternatives than purchasing a chiller

I have had an experience where my DT temp steeped up to 30degrees i lost a few good Xenia Species and within days my tank had hair algae bloom and suffocating my other softies as well...consequently i have made use of 2 x 2ltr bottles freezing them up and every day once in the morning and when i return from work place them in the sump...and i must add this has dropped my temperature to 26 degrees. I cleared up most of the hair algae with a soft tooth brush and saved as much as i could of the other softies. I have also ordered 2 sea hares to control this problem. Does anyone have the DIY diagram for building your own chiller with the aid of fridge motor, fan and small radiator..please advise Thx Braco:)
 
Hey Braco,
I am new to this, and see that this thread has been running a long time ago, but did you get any response? I am busy trying to make something work as I don't have (or want to) spend 5-7 thousand rand on a chiller. I am working on a concept where I use the base parts of an ice-maker. It has a small evaporator and takes up a very small space PLUS it freezes normal water within 8 minutes. The challenge is to get a method where I can make or duplicate the mechanics of a chiller, but I believe Titanium piping is hard to get/very expensive.
Can u advise me on something in this direction?
 
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